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Romano's Route
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 3.8 from 41
votes
Routes in The Spider's Web
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Arachne T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X |
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Bird's Nest T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Black Widow T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Cackling of the Hens T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R |
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Captain Hooks T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Chicken Wire T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Dacker Cracker T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Drop, Fly, or Die T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Esthesia T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Eternity T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Fear and Loathing in Keene Valley T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Grand Hysteria T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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It's Only Entertainment T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Je Me Souviens T 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R |
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Jelly Arms T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Key, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lycanthropia T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Lycanthropia, Her Way T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 |
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Monkey See, Monkey Do T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Mr. Rogers' Neighborhood T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Normal Route T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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On the Edge of Oblivion T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b X |
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On The Loose T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Only the Good Die Young T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Peace In Our Climbs T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R |
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Pumpernickel T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Retrograde T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Romano's Route T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Skeleton Key T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Slim Pickins T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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TR T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Wheelin' N' Dealin' T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a R |
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White Knight T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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White Knight Direct T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Wrong again, Chalkbreath T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Yvonne T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Zabba T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 95 ft (29 m) |
| FA: | Rich Romano late 70s |
| Page Views: | 5,935 total · 34/month |
| Shared By: | Steve Brady on Oct 12, 2010 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer |
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Description
(P1) A full value pitch! A series of burly moves up a steep, stout, finger crack (11c) gains a steep ramp that leads to a sloping rest ledge (~40'). Continue up the stellar hand crack (10+) to an alcove. Traverse right across a ledge to the anchor shared by On the Loose/White Knight (60m single rope rappel). Alternatively, continue up another 40' of cracks to a bolt anchor. (I have not done this upper pitch/link-up, so any info would be useful.)
Tip: A directional placed to the right from off the ramp is worthwhile for keeping the rope out of the crack below, which has, on occasion, proven to have an appetite for nylon (ask me how I know!).
Tip: A directional placed to the right from off the ramp is worthwhile for keeping the rope out of the crack below, which has, on occasion, proven to have an appetite for nylon (ask me how I know!).
Protection
Nuts; Double rack of cams to #2 Camalot. More gear if you want to fire the upper pitch as a link-up, which would be sweet. From the common anchor shared by White Knight and On the Loose, you can make a single rope rappel with a 60. The route protects well. The low crux tends to eat up gear to keep you out of ground-fall on tough terrain.
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