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Sentinel Chimney

5.4, Trad, 3 pitches,  Avg: 1.6 from 21 votes
FA: unknown
N Carolina > 3. Piedmont Region > Moore's Wall > Moore's Wall (R… > Sentinel Buttress > Circus Wall
Warning Access Issue: Post Hurricane Helene Accessibility of Crags DetailsDrop down

Description

Often forgotten climb, but enjoyable trek to the summit. Abundant protection. Good intro to trad multi-pitch at Moore's. Descent: Finish and hike over to rap bolts on Sentinel Buttress.

Location

Obvious chimney that splits the Central Wall on the right with the Circus Wall on the right.

Protection

Standard NC Rack, no fixed anchors. There's some old fixed webbing on P2 and a really old rusty piton on P3 (advise against using)

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

After the small cluster of trees, climb slightly right (to the mid-sized tree in the chimney) or slightly left (a little bit of slab). Both paths take you to the large belay ledge.
[Hide Photo] After the small cluster of trees, climb slightly right (to the mid-sized tree in the chimney) or slightly left (a little bit of slab). Both paths take you to the large belay ledge.
P3 piton.  Not bomber at all (it was backed up by a cam a few feet below)
[Hide Photo] P3 piton. Not bomber at all (it was backed up by a cam a few feet below)
One of many potential lines in the middle third of the route.
[Hide Photo] One of many potential lines in the middle third of the route.
An old piton near the top of the route. Photo courtesy of Tim McAvinney.
[Hide Photo] An old piton near the top of the route. Photo courtesy of Tim McAvinney.
Looking up the route. Maybe a little off center.
[Hide Photo] Looking up the route. Maybe a little off center.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Matt Westlake
Durham, NC
 
[Hide Comment] Sort of two versions of this - for Sentinel Chimney you start on the sentinel buttress and trend up and left, which can be a little slick and scary if wet, with some less than optimal gear for protecting fall consequences and the other is to start on the broken face left of the buttress and chimney. This is overall easier (mixes 4th and low 5th class) and provides better protection, at least until it gets a bit slabbier/easier. I think that version is what is known as the "Egg Wall". Oct 28, 2011
Neil Rankin
Winston-Salem, NC
  5.4
[Hide Comment] An esoteric route. Some cool old fixed pro at the top. Jan 22, 2018
Robby Purple
Boulder, CO
  5.4 R
[Hide Comment] Worth doing to get to the base of Air Show. Interesting in the sense that you have to figure out how to climb on poor friction and moss. Gear is bad but just don't fall. Sep 23, 2022