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Sentinel Chimney
5.4,
Trad, 3 pitches,
Avg: 1.6 from 21
votes
FA: unknown
N Carolina
> 3. Piedmont Region
> Moore's Wall
> Moore's Wall (R…
> Sentinel Buttress
> Circus Wall
Access Issue: Post Hurricane Helene Accessibility of Crags
Details
The CCC has created the list linked below of accessible and inaccessible climbing areas with some caveats. If you decide to head out for a day of climbing, please do not attempt to go to those marked ‘inaccessible’. Please note that all areas in WNC will have extensive tree damage and if you head out, use extra caution for all the trees above, especially on a windy day. Rock fall potential is also highest after a big weather event. Please use extra caution while climbing and prepare to self rescue if injured. Injury response time will be greatly limited for any injury currently, especially for a remote injury. Cell service is limited in all areas. Parking at accessible crags in the WNC/ Upstate SC region will likely be challenging. If the parking lot is full, go to a different area and do not park illegally or in a road. Make a plan B before leaving your house. Expect road detours on the way to the crag. NCdrive.gov updates road closures. Once you get to the crag, expect many trees blocking access trails and of course, come volunteer with the CCC to help us bring our climbing areas back!
Often forgotten climb, but enjoyable trek to the summit. Abundant protection. Good intro to trad multi-pitch at Moore's. Descent: Finish and hike over to rap bolts on Sentinel Buttress.
Location
Obvious chimney that splits the Central Wall on the right with the Circus Wall on the right.
Protection
Standard NC Rack, no fixed anchors. There's some old fixed webbing on P2 and a really old rusty piton on P3 (advise against using)
[Hide Photo] After the small cluster of trees, climb slightly right (to the mid-sized tree in the chimney) or slightly left (a little bit of slab). Both paths take you to the large belay ledge.
[Hide Photo] P3 piton. Not bomber at all (it was backed up by a cam a few feet below)
[Hide Photo] One of many potential lines in the middle third of the route.
[Hide Photo] An old piton near the top of the route. Photo courtesy of Tim McAvinney.
[Hide Photo] Looking up the route. Maybe a little off center.
[Hide Comment] Sort of two versions of this - for Sentinel Chimney you start on the sentinel buttress and trend up and left, which can be a little slick and scary if wet, with some less than optimal gear for protecting fall consequences and the other is to start on the broken face left of the buttress and chimney. This is overall easier (mixes 4th and low 5th class) and provides better protection, at least until it gets a bit slabbier/easier. I think that version is what is known as the "Egg Wall".
Oct 28, 2011
[Hide Comment] Worth doing to get to the base of Air Show. Interesting in the sense that you have to figure out how to climb on poor friction and moss. Gear is bad but just don't fall.
Sep 23, 2022
Durham, NC
Winston-Salem, NC
Boulder, CO