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Routes in Island Block
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Acrobat TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Alt Access T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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American Spurtsman V5 6C |
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Arete, The TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Doc Says You're Gonna Die AKA Chin And Bear It V0 4 |
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Lean Across TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Mission Impossible TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Prenuptial Taste Test V0 4 |
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Rigging Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 |
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S.T.A.N.C AKA Mr. Smoothie V4 6B |
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She Got the Bosch, I Got Drilled T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Smell The Glove V3 6A |
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Snake Bit V2 5+ |
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Spurtin' Outcomes V1 5 |
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Temptation TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Variation TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Wet Dreams TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Wonder World V4 6B |
| Type: | TR, 40 ft (12 m) |
| GPS: | 40.95392, -80.17141 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 3,596 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | Caleb Efta on Oct 9, 2010 · Updates |
| Admins: | Justin Johnsen, SCPC, SWPACC, EPAC |
Description
Climb the overhanging arete through the bulges and then balance your way up the slab to the top. Although it's considered a classic, it tends to be less popular with beginners since setting the top rope requires a small, easy free solo to reach the top of the block.
Location
Located on the right side of the north face of the Island Block, directly across from Beginners' Face.
Protection
Anchor bolts and trees for TR.
Not recommended to climb this off an anchor set for Temptation (the bolts right on climbers-left edge of the arete). This setup results in an unnecessary swing across the face if you come off. You can mitigate this by using longer cord or webbing and wrap the anchor around the back of the tree to keep it over the top of this route.
Better, a bit further back there are another set of bolts, near those for Mission Impossible. You'll need some longer anchor material, but these are ideal for this route.
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