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Lancelot Link/ Secret Chimp
5.10- YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British PG13
Avg: 2.9 from 8
votes
Routes in Thin Air Face
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Rose Madder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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DMZ T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Dawn Patrol T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Saigons, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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No Mans Land T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X |
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D'arcy Route, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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D'arcy Traverse, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Spacewalk T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Rapid Transit T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Ozone Bypass T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Thin Air T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Adventures in 3D T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Thinner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Windfall T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Freedom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Turner's Flake T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pro Choice T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Missing Link T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Lancelot Link/ Secret Chimp T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Standard Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Toe Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Repulsion T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Repulsion Variation P1 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Diagonal T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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| Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m) |
| FA: | Steve Wooding, Dave McDermott '89 |
| Page Views: | 2,039 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | E thatcher on Oct 4, 2010 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
While considered a variation on Missing link, Lancelot link provides an entirely different, and in my opinion, superior experience.
Find your way to the two bolt anchor for windfall. One can climb Thinner, Windfall, Freedom, Pro Choice, Turners Flake or Toe Crack to approach. I find that Freedom or windfall are the best as it makes for a very consistent link up grade wise.
From the anchor, move up and right over some considerably runout 5.easy terrain, aiming for a crack that leads to the unmistakable yellow roofs. There are several pins hidden behind flakes in this area. Depending on where you wonder you may come across them.
Clip a pin at the start of the crack and move up into the first small roof. Pull this (the crux of ML), and aim for the left end of the large roofs on the right. Reach over and clip the bolt, traverse a hair right and pull the roof on some of the most atypical moves you'll find at Cathedral.
After the roof you'll encounter another bolt followed by some heads up (r/pg-13) 5.7 climbing trending right into the Standard Route Chimney. Pick a tree to belay. Finish by scrambling up the Chimney.
Find your way to the two bolt anchor for windfall. One can climb Thinner, Windfall, Freedom, Pro Choice, Turners Flake or Toe Crack to approach. I find that Freedom or windfall are the best as it makes for a very consistent link up grade wise.
From the anchor, move up and right over some considerably runout 5.easy terrain, aiming for a crack that leads to the unmistakable yellow roofs. There are several pins hidden behind flakes in this area. Depending on where you wonder you may come across them.
Clip a pin at the start of the crack and move up into the first small roof. Pull this (the crux of ML), and aim for the left end of the large roofs on the right. Reach over and clip the bolt, traverse a hair right and pull the roof on some of the most atypical moves you'll find at Cathedral.
After the roof you'll encounter another bolt followed by some heads up (r/pg-13) 5.7 climbing trending right into the Standard Route Chimney. Pick a tree to belay. Finish by scrambling up the Chimney.
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