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> l. Longues voies
Pixie
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British PG13
Avg: 3.1 from 7
votes
Routes in l. Longues voies
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Point de fuite (Orient Express) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dixie T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Via Aero T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hommage T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Pixie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 330 ft (100 m), 2 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | FA (1st pitch) : Bertrand Côté et Martine Codère (1979) |
| Page Views: | 1,934 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | elvador on Oct 1, 2010 · Updates |
| Admins: | Thierry Berland, Richer Lariviere, Luc-514 |
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Access Issue: This cliffs is insured by the FQME
Details
This cliffs is under the liability insurance of the Fédération Québécoise de la Montagne et de l'Escalade (FQME).
Residents of Canada need to have:
-FQME 'Accès Montagne' membership (55$)
-For members of the Alpine Club of Canada an FQME 'Accès Montagne' upgrade (30$)
Or purchasing a 10$ day pass.
This money is used to pay the liability insurance for landowners regardless if they are private citizens, municipal or provincial.
The maintenance of cliffs and their access, replacing of fixed protection.
Residents of Canada need to have:
-FQME 'Accès Montagne' membership (55$)
-For members of the Alpine Club of Canada an FQME 'Accès Montagne' upgrade (30$)
Or purchasing a 10$ day pass.
This money is used to pay the liability insurance for landowners regardless if they are private citizens, municipal or provincial.
The maintenance of cliffs and their access, replacing of fixed protection.
Description
A nice route ascending "Les Grandes Dalles". 2 pitches. First pitch is mostly bolt protected and is more slab climbing. Pitch 2 is a mix of face climbing, dihedrals, slab and with a small point of aid.
Pitch 1 zig-zags alot. Climb an obvious 10 feet crack to reach a ledge. Get up on the slab a little to the right. Once on the slabs, locate far apart bolts to reach the "roofs". Roof are really well protected with bolts. Make it pass the roofs to a chain anchor.
Pitch 2 starts on the left of the chain anchors. CLimb a right facing corner to reach a nice wall with a good crack. Make your way up to the dead tree. (Point of aid... sling or steps needs) Climb the huge flake to reach the summit
Pitch 1 zig-zags alot. Climb an obvious 10 feet crack to reach a ledge. Get up on the slab a little to the right. Once on the slabs, locate far apart bolts to reach the "roofs". Roof are really well protected with bolts. Make it pass the roofs to a chain anchor.
Pitch 2 starts on the left of the chain anchors. CLimb a right facing corner to reach a nice wall with a good crack. Make your way up to the dead tree. (Point of aid... sling or steps needs) Climb the huge flake to reach the summit
Location
This route is hard to find if you dont know the site. Once you'Ve reach the "planetarium, hike up towards the right on the path leading to the top of the "pierrier". Going up this path, you will notice ramps to access the wall on the left. Take the second ramp (a fixed rope is there to help you not kill yourself)
Walk on the ramp until you see a nice 10 foot hand crack... thats the start!
Walk on the ramp until you see a nice 10 foot hand crack... thats the start!
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