Type: Boulder, 12 ft (4 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,079 total · 6/month
Shared By: Mikel Madsen on Sep 21, 2010 · Updates
Admins: Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Start on the hollow flake on the left side of the face. Climb into a couple sharp crimps, trending right to gain "the mother of all jugs." Climb into the vertical seam above with varying betas to a committing snatch of the lip.

Regarding the history of this line, it is well-known that Chuck Fryberger climbed the line, as the climb was showcased in Friction Addiction: Black Hills Gold. There have been reports of the line being climbed by Christian Baird first, who called the line "Mother of All Jugs," but it is unclear if it was sent, and if so, where from. There have also been reports of Mike and Rusty Lewis at least attempting the line, maybe as a jump-start to the jug?

Over the years this climb has accumulated some variations...

  • Fryberger Start, starting matched on the large hollow flake. This is line as described above.
  • Low-Left, sit-start in the overhang, matched in the jug seam. Traverses the seam above the Fryberger Start. This is listed as Knife in a Gunfight Low in the Black Hills Bouldering 1st Edition book.
  • Low-Right, sit-start matched on a small crimp rail below and right of the large flake. Make moves into the Fryberger Start.
  • Direct, sit-start matched on a small crimp, the same as the Low-Right start, but climb straight up through thin crimps culminating in an initial (likely) dyno to the jug. This line avoids the hollow flake of the Fryberger start entirely.

Location Suggest change

Located below the northeast slope of Turtle Rock (or Turtle Dome). Hike to the boulder from the northeast by following the trail down the valley from The Testpiece. Trend west onto the slabs toward Turtle Rock. After cresting the slabs the large boulder will be visible through the trees the west.

Protection Suggest change

A few pads and spotters.

Photos

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