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Routes in The Sorcerer
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Atlantis T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Davy Jones' Locker T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Don Juan Wall, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Duty Now for the Future T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Fantasia T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Gorilla Wrestling T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ice Pirates T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Lost at Sea T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Pinhead T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Raven, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Scirocco S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sleight of Hand T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Stars and Stripes alt start T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Stars and Stripes Forever T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Thin Ice T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tradewinds S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Wailing Banshees T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 140 ft (42 m) |
| FA: | FA: Fred Beckey (5.7 A2) 4-73, FFA: Dave Bruckman, Todd Gordon, Mari Gingery, Scott Loomis, Mike Fogarty |
| Page Views: | 5,090 total · 30/month |
| Shared By: | john durr on Sep 20, 2010 |
| Admins: | Cory B, Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
A stellar one pitch thin seam on the northwest face of Sorcerer. Purity of line, sustained and technical, beautiful rock with very fine moves make this a single pitch classic on a cliff full of multi-pitch classics. A challenging lead.
Climb a thin crack up to a roof, pass the roof (crux), and continue with sustained 5.10+ to a fixed copper head. Sustained 5.10a (R) stemming past a 3-4" flared groove with a bush. Continue up 2-3" grooves and stems to a second roof sustained 5.10a. Pass roof and move left and up ramp/dihedral with nice finger cracks until the ramp pinches off. Drop down and left to the bolted anchor.
Climb a thin crack up to a roof, pass the roof (crux), and continue with sustained 5.10+ to a fixed copper head. Sustained 5.10a (R) stemming past a 3-4" flared groove with a bush. Continue up 2-3" grooves and stems to a second roof sustained 5.10a. Pass roof and move left and up ramp/dihedral with nice finger cracks until the ramp pinches off. Drop down and left to the bolted anchor.
Location
Just down from the Sorcerer / Charlatan Notch on the northwest face of Sorcerer. This route is easily approached by rappelling down Spooky or on the descent from other routes on the Sorcerer. Afternoon sun.
Protection
A good assortment of small offset brass stoppers, set of stoppers, extra tcu's, one each cams to 3", a Yates Screamer to clip the fixed copper head might help who knows?
The route ends at the main bolted rappel anchor for the Sorcerer's north ridge normal descent towards the notch at Spooky.
The route ends at the main bolted rappel anchor for the Sorcerer's north ridge normal descent towards the notch at Spooky.
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