PRINT: Rock Climb Preparation H, The New River Gorge Region

Preparation H

5.12a, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),

Avg: 3.6 from 151 votes
FA: Harrison Dekker, Rick Thompson 1992
W Virginia > New River Gorge… > New River Gorge… > Kaymoor > 3. Rico Suave Buttress

Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS Details

All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.

Description

Start on the block just right of the arete. Climb up on left side of the arete till about the 4th or 5th bolts, then swing onto the right side and layback the sloping arete. The layback section is excellent, balancy fun. Easy climbing after this brings you to the anchors

Location

Arete just left of Pockets of Resistance.

Protection

7 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Sent

Preparation H (mid Crux)- photo by matt

Double butt shot

Preparation H - photo by matt

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Eric G
Cary, NC

Stayed on the left side of the arete for the full route with good flow. Didn't even think of transitioning given the features available. The grade still lined up with Out of the Bag and Pockets of Resistance. Excellent route that adds even more variety to Rico. May 16, 2018

Joe Whittlesey
Durham, NC

lol, Eric I transitioned to the right side. IDK how tf you did it just on the left side! Sep 3, 2019

Rico Thompson
Boulder, CO

The correct FA info is: Harrison Dekker, Rick Thompson. I bolted it, and we never sorted out who red-pointed it first. It may have been Harrison, it may have been me. Jul 8, 2023