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Jamminy Crackit
5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.3 from 16
votes
Routes in John's Tower
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30 is the new 50 AKA Slim Pickins T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Becker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Big House T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Blood Clot T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Burning Man T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Burning Mon T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Champagne and PBR T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Chocolate Hotdog T V6-7 7A+ |
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Corridor Crack V2-3 5+ |
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Day Saver, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Diagonal Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Double Dippin' T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Fun House T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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House of Cards T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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In the Flat Field T C2+ |
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Iron Cross T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Iron Maiden a.k.a. Blood Drive T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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It's Bloody Solid T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Jamminy Crackit T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Married On Morphine T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Right of Vowel Movement T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Roofinit T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Rose Hips T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Seventeen Pantomimes T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Soul Fire T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Steppin' Out T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Taco Filling T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Ultra Bypass T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Ultra Violets T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Vowel Movement S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Yellow Belly T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 105 ft (32 m) |
| FA: | Skip Harper, et al. |
| Page Views: | 2,791 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | slim on Sep 10, 2010 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Access Issue: Temporary Notice on aerial herbicide treatment & Bad Bolt Submission Form
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PSA for those thinking about a trip. The gates are still closed and the sign says enter at your own risk. "Aerial application by helicopter of the herbicide Rejuvra will target over 5,700 acres on a landscape that has been the focus of multiple years’ worth of treatment."
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Description
This is a great route that doesn't see much traffic. For the grade at Vedauwoo, it is very friendly.
JC is located on the east end/buttress of John's Tower. This beautiful crack line navigates through steep territory. The line is obvious, with a steep, twin crack start with big hands. This transitions to thin hands with some good hand pods in steep, leaning bulge. This narrows down to fingers and then you pull a nice, fun roof that fortunately gives you a lot to work with.
Pull onto a ledge and totally switch gears. The book says that there are bolts (i.e. plural) on the face above you, but there was only one. You can tinker in some small, not so great stoppers, but be careful as the crux is encountered before you clip the bolt about 10 feet off the ledge. It is really good face climbing here but somewhat serious. There is a bolted anchor not too far above.
From the ledge, supposedly there is a bolted variation that goes out left (I didn't see it). Also, you can do a classic, Vedauwoo-looking crack traverse to the right and then climb an overhanging corner to escape. The traverse looks pretty wild, but it has perfect gear.
JC is located on the east end/buttress of John's Tower. This beautiful crack line navigates through steep territory. The line is obvious, with a steep, twin crack start with big hands. This transitions to thin hands with some good hand pods in steep, leaning bulge. This narrows down to fingers and then you pull a nice, fun roof that fortunately gives you a lot to work with.
Pull onto a ledge and totally switch gears. The book says that there are bolts (i.e. plural) on the face above you, but there was only one. You can tinker in some small, not so great stoppers, but be careful as the crux is encountered before you clip the bolt about 10 feet off the ledge. It is really good face climbing here but somewhat serious. There is a bolted anchor not too far above.
From the ledge, supposedly there is a bolted variation that goes out left (I didn't see it). Also, you can do a classic, Vedauwoo-looking crack traverse to the right and then climb an overhanging corner to escape. The traverse looks pretty wild, but it has perfect gear.
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