The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The
District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A
bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have
some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow
Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any
current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the
District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief:
Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north:
Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north:
Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Avg: 2.6 from 69
votes
Access Issue: Camping
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Chilliwack, BC
The proper Out To Lunge climbs a short rightwards traverse (thin crack, easier to foot traverse than hand traverse) and up to gain the higher of the two traverses. More like 5.9 than 10a. Jun 5, 2012
Salt Lake City, UT
Bottom line, if you come here to tick the route - Certainly not a proud 10b send, but definitely fun, and has a few moves of 5.9+ or 10a. The traverse additionally has nothing but slabby smearing for feet.
Way too long a comment for this climb though :) Aug 6, 2012
Vancouver, BC
Particularly enjoyed the mantle to the anchor. Really fun, just not the same grade as Split Beaver. Also, the route description seems to describe the right hand variation of Easter Island. Out To Lunge starts at the same place but takes a finger crack to the right before doubling back left along a lovely traverse.
Gear up to 1", maybe two .75s for the traverse. Small nut protects the crux well. Jul 1, 2014
Squamish
Leavenworth, WA