Ugly Duckling
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British R
Avg: 2.3 from 11 votes
Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Kevin Worrall & George Meyers - 1974 |
Page Views: | 2,587 total · 15/month |
Shared By: | Osprey Overhang on Sep 7, 2010 |
Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
Just like the children's story that inspired the name, Ugly Duckling starts out on an ugly face which eventually turns into something beautiful.
Pitch one: Climb a boulder problem start (.10a) on good edges up and onto the mossy slab. Make your way right and up, cleaning the edges off as you go until you reach the first bolt (run out). Continue cleaning as you climb straight up below an oak tree's branches before reaching another bolt (run out). At this point, the rock becomes cleaner as well as steeper. Climb good knobs (.8) until you reach the third bolt (run out). Follow the thin crack right and up to the belay in the corner alcove.
Pitch two: This is where the climb becomes beautiful. Traverse left out a hand crack (.9) on amazing glacier polish. The best granite at Swan Slab is found in this section. When the traverse ends, climb straight up and pull the crux (.10c) with good gear at your feet. The climb then tops out on an easy wide flake and crack.
Location
There is a variation to the right with two bolts. This option is not recommended.
After topping out, walk off to the right.
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