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The Right Cheek

5.10a PG13, Trad, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 1 from 2 votes
FA: Adam Winslow, Bill Coe, Phil Guidotti, Jim Opdycke 4/4/09
Washington > South-W & Tacoma > Columbia Gorge > Farside / Dropzone > (7) The Bare Buttress
Warning Access Issue: Highway 14 Parking DetailsDrop down

Description

The right cheek sits directly to the right of Adam's crack and shares the start with Sweet Surprise and Scary. Climb the crack 9' to the left of the large fir tree growing out of the cliff following easy, but poorly protected ledges 50' to a good stance below a well-protected crux move. Traverse left below the small Maple at the top of the 5th class terrain on the Bare Buttress and finish at the same anchor as Adam's crack.

Protection

Medium to large Hex placements and medium cams. Also, the crux is protected well by a blue alien and more specifically a #11 DMM Offset Nut (the black one). Also, if you think it's worth it, AND if you have a small black tricam AND you have your nut tool with you, you can dig out a small placement halfway up to the crux to protect the easier terrain. I'm not putting a bolt there though dammit!

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Adam starting FA of The Right Cheek, Phil Guidotti belaying.
[Hide Photo] Adam starting FA of The Right Cheek, Phil Guidotti belaying.
Start as for the first 15' of Sweet Surprise, then trend up and left towards a TV sized Triangle shaped block. Surmounting this is the fun crux. Then work left and finish as for the other routes on the Bare Buttress.
[Hide Photo] Start as for the first 15' of Sweet Surprise, then trend up and left towards a TV sized Triangle shaped block. Surmounting this is the fun crux. Then work left and finish as for the other routes o…

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Colten Fox
Vancouver, WA
[Hide Comment] Hey Adam, in response to our earlier conversation I’m looking for a green light to bolt this route and give it a good scrubbing with the intention of keeping it mixed! Thanks for doing the initial work!

  • Update, three bolts total were added to the route, the first is about 20 feet up, #3 cam still needed about ten feet up, maybe another piece a bit lower if the rock is damp. Another bolt has been added to the crux, the previous spot for pro was gently tested with a rock bar and it has a bit of give, not something you would want to fall on. I’d recommend putting in another piece before you sling the tree just in you slip, the ledge will not feel good.

I saved a screenshot of Adam giving me the green light in a direct message if anyone has any questions as to why the route is now mixed. There were full on plants and small trees on the route that were removed in the hopes some added permanent protection will increase access Aug 7, 2020
Billcoe
Pacific Northwet
[Hide Comment] Thanks Colton! Hopefully the line starts getting some regular traffic. May 13, 2021