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No Self Control

5.6, Trad, TR, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 2.3 from 16 votes
FA: Warren Musselman and John Anderson, Oct 1981
Pennsylvania > Southeastern Lo… > Ralph Stover SP… > o. Chain Reaction But…

Description

Follows a large corner, sometimes sharing it with a little trickling water or toxic foliage. Halfway up is a ledge with a tree, and it tops out through a notch, slightly to the right in a small overhang.

Location

Far right/east side of Chain Reaction Buttress, starting from the belay trail.

Protection

Rack. Easy to protect.

No anchor/rap bolts over this route, though the bolts from neighboring routes can be borrowed if nobody else is on the east side of Chain Reaction Buttress.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Random assortment of gear I used to lead the climb. In order, starting with the purple C4.
[Hide Photo] Random assortment of gear I used to lead the climb. In order, starting with the purple C4.
Martin on lead
[Hide Photo] Martin on lead
Martin leading, Nikita on belay
[Hide Photo] Martin leading, Nikita on belay
Anna near the top of No Self Control.
[Hide Photo] Anna near the top of No Self Control.
the face
[Hide Photo] the face
General shot of NSC's corner
[Hide Photo] General shot of NSC's corner
FEB 12 2022 - My son, Elias, on his second trad lead. Looking down from the top in the middle of the upper corner. Another good pitch to learn trad leading. Great gear, maybe one 5.6 move near the top of the corner. And it's a fun pitch.
[Hide Photo] FEB 12 2022 - My son, Elias, on his second trad lead. Looking down from the top in the middle of the upper corner. Another good pitch to learn trad leading. Great gear, maybe one 5.6 move near t…
The face
[Hide Photo] The face

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Larry S
Easton, PA
[Hide Comment] My very first lead. Gear is easy and plentiful. Hexes work pretty well if you don't have many cams, but a strange #3 camalot makes exiting the roof feel better. Nov 23, 2010
PaulOnTheWall
Whitehall, PA
 
[Hide Comment] This is a nice little warm up route for Phone Booth or Chain Reaction. Lots of room for variation. After you get about half way up, try the arete on the left or the south facing face on the right for a little more difficulty. Fun and easy for beginners. If you top rope this on a busy day, the belay area is very narrow so expect people to be passing through. Apr 18, 2012
gunkie X
Solebury, PA
 
[Hide Comment] Quality climb on good rock. Good choice for a beginning trad leader. A little dirty topping out. Would be nice to have a couple of bolts at the top rather than using the tree to anchor from. EDIT: There are bolts at the top. Feb 16, 2022
Gregory Fanarisios
Pennsylvania
 
[Hide Comment] This one is fun, super easy climbing up to the roof, 5.4 and easier territory. Summer 2023, we removed some poison ivy and brushed the holds. It's mostly cleared of growth, other than some grass on the ledges. Jul 9, 2023