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Good Medicine

5.12a, Sport, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 3.6 from 151 votes
FA: Jim Stone 96
Utah > Northeast Utah > Uinta Mountains > Ruth Lake > Good Medicine Area
Warning Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area DetailsDrop down

Description

Lay back or jam the overhanging crack to a crimpy prow. One of the steepest route in the Ruth Lake area and not a gimmi for the grade. Try not to pump out or else be ready for some air time!!

Location

One of the first route on the left. There is another route that shares the same start. Good Medicine is the route that branches off to the right

Protection

7 bolts

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Dave Warton working Good Medicine
[Hide Photo] Dave Warton working Good Medicine
Aubrey shaking out before finishing the onsight of Good Medicine.
[Hide Photo] Aubrey shaking out before finishing the onsight of Good Medicine.
Don't forget to top out this classic!
[Hide Photo] Don't forget to top out this classic!
Nok enjoys the views while being lowered off Good Medicine
[Hide Photo] Nok enjoys the views while being lowered off Good Medicine
Andrew Williams taking the whip on his send attempt
[Hide Photo] Andrew Williams taking the whip on his send attempt
Crimpin aint easy
[Hide Photo] Crimpin aint easy
William eyes the head wall above
[Hide Photo] William eyes the head wall above

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Mark Overdevest
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] This is really a great route, with well placed bolts. Save gas in the crack for the crimpy headwall. In contrast to a few of the other routes up here, I found this full value for the grade as well. Get on it! Sep 7, 2011
Kurt Howes
  5.11c/d
[Hide Comment] This is one of the softest 12.a's I've ever climbed, and found it no harder than the 11.c's to the right (others have concurred); so get on it cause it's good fun. After a hard rain washes the chalk away your onsight will be a bit tougher, por supuesto. Jul 7, 2017
davidbrandonkamp
 
[Hide Comment] Fun, varied climbing. Having jamming skills makes it considerably easier in my opinion. it would be a good pick for a first 12a. Jun 25, 2018
Adam Fleming
AMGA Certified Rock Guide,…
  5.11d
[Hide Comment] Just like a 5.9 slab doesn't magically become 5.11 because choose to crimp instead of friction climb, this route shouldn't be 12a just because you layback instead of handjam. This route is 11d if you can jam the steep section (big 2s, tight 3s) and maybe 12a if you try to layback instead. Regardless of the grade, this is a fun route with engaging movement on the headwall and is well worth a go. Sep 26, 2023