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> Big Thompson Ca…
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> Friendship 7 Wall
Every Which Way But Loose
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British PG13
Avg: 1.9 from 14
votes
Routes in Friendship 7 Wall
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Every Which Way But Loose S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Friendship Seven S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Left of Seven T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Trash Can T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Type: | Sport, 140 ft (42 m) |
| FA: | Al Simons |
| Page Views: | 1,626 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | allen simons on Jul 25, 2010 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc. - open since 2023
Details
Update: per Bruce Hildenbrand: the area has been open since 2023.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Description
This has cruxes at bolts 5 through 7 and the upper slab. This route is fun, but heed the name. Avoid the loose stuff on the face and at the overhang traverse right at the first bolt past the first belay. I wanted this route to go right up the overhang, but there is a lot of "bombay crap" in the overhang. Deepest thoughts...hummmmn...this is a serious undertaking for a sport route due to the loose nature of the rock. Helmets are advised for the belayer as well as the climber.
Location
This is in Big Thompson Canyon, in the Narrows, 1.3 miles west of the siphon tube. Start as for the Trash Can, clip the first bolt and gain the left face. Face climb past 7 bolts (9+/10a) to a two chain belay. 2nd pitch. Stem across right (long sling-check out the action photo) under the loose roof and on to the left wall of the trash can, up past 4 more bolts and a slab to a two chain anchor.
Protection
Can be done in one long pitch, that's how I did it on the FA (I clipped the first bolt of the second pitch and reached back and unclipped the quickdraw that was at the first belay-see action photo). 7 bolts to a 2 chain belay, 5 bolts on the second pitch to a 2 chain belay. Long sling (4-5 feet) for the first bolt past the first belay or the rope drag will kill ya.
To get down, use a two rope rap from the top chains or one rope to the first belay, (getting under the overhang to the chains takes some trickery if you do the one rope thing). Keep the rope right into the Trash Can or it can get hung up.
To get down, use a two rope rap from the top chains or one rope to the first belay, (getting under the overhang to the chains takes some trickery if you do the one rope thing). Keep the rope right into the Trash Can or it can get hung up.
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