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Queen of the Heartbreaks
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.8 from 133
votes
Routes in Pratt's Crack / Dihedrals Area
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Pratt's Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ecstasy S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Cornerstone S 5.14b/c 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b |
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Queen of Percussion S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Sheila T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Queen of the Heartbreaks S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Rage Against S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Penumbra S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Eclipsed S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Eclipsed Direct S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
| Type: | Sport, 130 ft (39 m) |
| FA: | Shaddow Ayala |
| Page Views: | 16,578 total · 92/month |
| Shared By: | Shadow Ayala on Jul 24, 2010 · Updates |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Description
Scramble up to the ledge just below 'Sheila'. Use the belay bolt to protect the easy moves to the first bolt and deal with immediate arete cruxyness at the second bolt. Once you grab the jugs clip the third bolt and pull into the dihedral. Stem your way up the fun dihedral until it runs dry. When you get to the roof, pull around left and onto the face. Touch 'Sheila' for a brief moment and then head right. Climb forever on the amazing face using incredible little crimper jugs. After climbing 125ft. the holds vanish and your options become limited. Clip the last bolt and float through the heartbreaker of a finish. DON'T CHEAT THE ROUTE BY BAILING LEFT (to the offwidth)! Go straight up the blank looking face to the anchor. This climb is center stage and classic! I can't believe it wasn't climbed sooner.
16 Comments