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Fern Crack

5.7, Trad, 40 ft (12 m),  Avg: 1.9 from 18 votes
FA: unknown
Virginia > Shenandoah & NW… > Shenandoah NP > Old Rag > Skyline Wall (PATC Wall)

Description

Jam the fist sized crack to a stance, then jam/layback the corner/crack above to a bulge, pull the bulge and squeeze through a small chimney.

Protection

Cams to #4 Black Diamond

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Photo of the route
[Hide Photo] Photo of the route
Rusty and a bit mossy bong piton can be still found on this route (2021)
[Hide Photo] Rusty and a bit mossy bong piton can be still found on this route (2021)
At the stance on Fern Crack
[Hide Photo] At the stance on Fern Crack

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Bob Johnson
Philadelphia, PA
[Hide Comment] The chimney is VERY unstable. I was climbing this yesterday, got to the chimney, stood up and about 1000 pounds of rock pulled out and tumbled down the face of the cliff. Unbelievably, none of us were hurt. There is still probably a lot of loose rock up there. Due to the rock fall, there is now a large boulder on the ledge halfway up that is loose and is ready to fall. May 25, 2014
Chris Irwin
Silver Spring, Maryland
 
[Hide Comment] Just climbed this today.

I think it's a bad idea to place pro on either side of the flake in the center of the wide crack of the bulge. When I pulled on it- like a pinch- small chockstones rattled out as I flexed the flake.

There is good gear just below the bulge, and perhaps a #5 or #6 BD cam could be place in the bulge crack (ignoring the floating flake).

The chimney at the top is actually stable, it is the stacked blocks and blocks in the back of the chimney that are a bit concerning, but not a death trap. Jun 26, 2016
Brendan Maguire
Manassas, VA
[Hide Comment] The thin flake inside the wide crack will break if you place gear in it. You might be able to place a number 6 C4 or a big bro in the very wide crack on the bulge Aug 26, 2016
Danny Prouty
Thurmont, MD
  5.7+
[Hide Comment] A few loose rocks at top after the bulge/flake, but easy to avoid. Everything looked and felt stable otherwise. Eats +4" cams at bottom. Rope drag over the slab finish was noticeable, but not horrible. Quick and easy anchor at summit. May 3, 2021