[Hide Comment] Phenomenal route. It is steep and intimidating from the bottom and remains so until the very end. It seemed sustained for the grade (with the occasional good rest), but that may just have been the 11,000 foot altitude talking.

Gear is excellent.

Nuts + double cams from thin to #2 with one #3 camalot. Extra finger sized cams for the squeemish (like me) helps.

Our 70m just made it. YMMV with a 60m. But you can always hit the anchors on top of the 11a to get down in two raps. Jul 21, 2012

[Hide Comment] Yeah, superb and hard for the grade. Certainly harder than an Indian Creek .10-. Definitely a full value pitch; does stay with you till the very end Dec 2, 2018

[Hide Comment] I didn't place any nuts since I had small cams, but if you only singles in smalls, bring nuts or just bring doubles .2-2 and 1 #3 c4s, small TCUs or C3s help

I think this route is way more classic than Boi-oi-oi-ing. 5 star route. A must do for the area Aug 19, 2019

[Hide Comment] A shame the bolts were ever placed, route is easily protectable on gear through the bottom section. I’m sorry, but not a .10 in the Creek, Tommy Boy felt more sustained for the grade even with being much shorter. Regardless, was great climbing throughout the whole route Jun 30, 2020

[Hide Comment] Only TR'd to the first anchor--very firmly in the 10a range--strenuous/pumpy, but you do get some good stances here and there. Gotta come back for the lead and to finish to upper anchors. Intimidating! Jul 23, 2020

[Hide Comment] I agree this route would be 5.6 in the creek. Much easier when you can cool down at a moment's notice.

Also, I give it 3 extra stars. One for each beautiful bolt. Sep 5, 2020

[Hide Comment] Beautiful climb. Not sure why anyone would compare this to the Creek, its character is the opposite of a typical Creek splitter. Very techy with some good stances. It's possibly the most varied in crack size and type of movement you could cram into a single pitch of crack without getting any wider than fists (which arguably makes it perfect). I love a good kitchen sink kind of climb: every size from fingers to fists (not continuously), stemming, liebacking, a bulge/roof, traverse, everything but a chimney. Felt 10a, but probably only if you read the route correctly. Jul 18, 2022

[Hide Comment] Anchor update 9/24/22: Quick Links were worn down almost halfway through the metal. I didn't have any replacements with me so left two aluminum lockers. My guess is that these will wear down really fast once the next season starts up.

It would be awesome if someone heading that way would bring up two new steel links to update the anchor. Sorry to ask this of the community, but I'm not local. I'm happy to send $$ to pay for the links since I should have had some with me. Sep 27, 2022

[Hide Comment] "I agree this route would be 5.6 in the creek." Maybe, but not likely. Different kind of crack. Sep 5, 2024

[Hide Comment] I personally find it all of 10a and I think the Creek is soft. Sep 5, 2024