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Stars and Stripes Forever
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2.4 from 13
votes
Routes in The Sorcerer
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Atlantis T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Davy Jones' Locker T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Don Juan Wall, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Duty Now for the Future T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Fantasia T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Gorilla Wrestling T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ice Pirates T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Lost at Sea T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Pinhead T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Raven, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Scirocco S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sleight of Hand T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Stars and Stripes alt start T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Stars and Stripes Forever T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Thin Ice T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tradewinds S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Wailing Banshees T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,988 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Bryan G on Jul 19, 2010 |
| Admins: | Cory B, Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
This climb is on the West Face of The Sorcerer (facing out towards the Magician). It starts just downhill from Sleight of Hand. Traverse out right on a large flake (exposure right from the get go!). Lieback and jam up some easy flakes angling up and left towards a roof. (optional belay under the roof)
Pull directly over the roof on some juggy flakes (5.9) and then climb up an easy slab to a bolt (5.5 R). From the bolt climb up and left to a second bolt. A couple more moves of 5.8/5.9 friction gain the more featured rock above. Take the low angle jugs and knobs to the top of the massive flake (5.5 R). Step across the gap between the flake and the main wall and belay on this ledge. The anchor takes small TCU's. Scramble over the top of the Sorcerer to the other side where the rap anchor is.
I used a 70 meter rope to do this in one pitch although it may also be possible with a 60M. In any case, be sure to extend any gear you place under the roof.
Pull directly over the roof on some juggy flakes (5.9) and then climb up an easy slab to a bolt (5.5 R). From the bolt climb up and left to a second bolt. A couple more moves of 5.8/5.9 friction gain the more featured rock above. Take the low angle jugs and knobs to the top of the massive flake (5.5 R). Step across the gap between the flake and the main wall and belay on this ledge. The anchor takes small TCU's. Scramble over the top of the Sorcerer to the other side where the rap anchor is.
I used a 70 meter rope to do this in one pitch although it may also be possible with a 60M. In any case, be sure to extend any gear you place under the roof.
Location
The quickest way to approach the route is by scrambling to the top of the Charlatan and rapping down to the notch with 2 ropes via the Spooky anchors. From here you can scramble (4th class downclimb) to the start of the climb or set up another rappel with gear or by slinging a large pine. This temporary anchor can be retrieved after you finish the climb and rap back down to the notch.
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