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> Scheelite Canyo…
> Blindspot Buttress
Blindspot
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British
Avg: 3.6 from 65
votes
Routes in Blindspot Buttress
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Agent Orange T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Blindspot T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Hindsight S,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Kaleidoscope T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Link Up T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 7 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Victor Lawson |
| Page Views: | 11,884 total · 68/month |
| Shared By: | Victor Lawson on Jul 2, 2010 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
P1: Climb cracks to ledge and arete. Pass a bolt (.10b) then head up and right to a hidden thin hand crack. Can link w/ pitch two easily. 1 bolt/gear to 2"
P2: Delicate flakes lead to a hard move on clean rock above a bolt (.11a) to gain a great hand/finger crack. Can link w/ pitch one easily. 1 bolt/gear to #3 camalot.
P3: Traverse left to a short O.W. (5.8) then "crawl on all sixes" to reach belay. Unique and wild. Optional #4 for O.W., otherwise, gear to #3.
P4: Thin left facing corner to fun and techy bolted arch (.11b). Great climbing! 5 bolts/thin gear.
P5: Several mantles up ledges (.10a) to amphitheater belay. 4 bolts/one thin piece.
P6: Awesome left traversing underclings (.11a). Bring your camera. 3 bolts/gear to #3.
P7: Up for a bit (.10b) then head right via obvious 4th class slab to bolted belay. Gear to #3.
P2: Delicate flakes lead to a hard move on clean rock above a bolt (.11a) to gain a great hand/finger crack. Can link w/ pitch one easily. 1 bolt/gear to #3 camalot.
P3: Traverse left to a short O.W. (5.8) then "crawl on all sixes" to reach belay. Unique and wild. Optional #4 for O.W., otherwise, gear to #3.
P4: Thin left facing corner to fun and techy bolted arch (.11b). Great climbing! 5 bolts/thin gear.
P5: Several mantles up ledges (.10a) to amphitheater belay. 4 bolts/one thin piece.
P6: Awesome left traversing underclings (.11a). Bring your camera. 3 bolts/gear to #3.
P7: Up for a bit (.10b) then head right via obvious 4th class slab to bolted belay. Gear to #3.
Location
APPROACH: The route takes a prominent line up a clean and proud, SW facing buttress. Hike up Pratt's Crack Canyon proper, passing the Gecko wall and continuing up a hill on a well constructed, rocky trail. Crest the hill and then cross the river directly across from a cave w/ bolts. Head up talus and then up 3rd class ledges (30ft) to a belay platform. 20min from car.
DESCENT: 5 raps down the route with one 60m rope. Extra caution is advised for the first rap as it is 30m!
DESCENT: 5 raps down the route with one 60m rope. Extra caution is advised for the first rap as it is 30m!
Protection
Ground up, bolted entirely on lead. When the gear could hold a fall, a bolt was not placed. When it couldn't, or a nasty ledge fall was likely, a bolt was placed. There are 14 lead bolts in seven pitches and all belays are bolted ring hangers. All bolts and hangers are stainless steel.
Nuts & a double rack up to a #2 camalot and one #3 camalot is suggested (a #4 is very optional for the short 5.8 O.W. on pitch 3.) A mix of sport and extendo draws are required. If this is at your limit, go heavier on thin gear ie; nuts and cams to finger size.
Nuts & a double rack up to a #2 camalot and one #3 camalot is suggested (a #4 is very optional for the short 5.8 O.W. on pitch 3.) A mix of sport and extendo draws are required. If this is at your limit, go heavier on thin gear ie; nuts and cams to finger size.
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