Type: Sport, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: Olsen, Colley, 1989
Page Views: 8,582 total · 49/month
Shared By: Sean Patrick on Jun 25, 2010 · Updates
Admins: Kevin Piarulli, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Long, technical, and thoughtful series of edges, most of which are rounded. There's a couple of cool bulges. This route is the first pitch to Orgasmaphoria. Together, they make for a fun afternoon on a long route with good rock, position, and bolts.

Location Suggest change

Start as for Finger Puppet, a goofy little 5.10a on left side of Red Wall, but head right at the third bolt or so. Finger Puppet, and this route, start on top of a ledge gained by doing a 3-4 meter 5.6 corner with multiple cracks. Thirty or forty feet left of Dances With Clams.

If you do this pitch alone, I bet you could rap with a 60m, but I'm not sure. Sorry. If someone knows, would you comment below?

Because we linked this with Orgasmaphoria, we brought shoes to walk off down Misery Ridge: Above the anchors, drop down to a little gully; climb the greasy 5.7 crack (some people actually lead this with gear - set of nuts); gain the ridge, and hike down. Alternatively, you can rappel Super Slab.

Don't try to rappel this route.

Protection Suggest change

Ten bolts or so with bolt anchors.

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