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Airlie Gardens

5.9, Trad, 130 ft (39 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 3.6 from 91 votes
FA: Tom Howard, Dan Perry (1982)
N Carolina > 2. Northern Mou… > Ship Rock > Main Tier
Warning Access Issue: Post Hurricane Helene Accessibility of Crags DetailsDrop down

Description

One of the best 5.9 in the entire state. It has great movement, tons of exposure, and bomber gear. Both pitches have unique features that are hard to beat anywhere.

P1 begins next to a tree in a shallow right facing dihedral. Follow this to a short unprotected face. Continue up to the left side of the arete. Be sure to place the crucial piece of gear here before pulling around. Pull around the sharp arete to the right and up. There is an optional piece of gear out right, but can cause a lot of drag if not on double ropes. Continue up the arete to the short slab. Pull the short slab into another dihedral. Plug up the left side of the V-crack for the crux. Move out left, either rest on the ledge or continue up the dihedral pulling the roof. Move left after the short dihedral and belay on a sizable ledge with trad gear.

Option 2, start 20' to the right of said dihedral. Climb up jugs and mail slots with many more gear opportunities. Move up and left onto the slab and into the steep v-slot. This is my preferred method due better protection and reduced rope drag.

P2 moves out right up the ramp and to a crack on the face. Follow the crack to where it is capped by the large roof. At the roof traverse left in the large horizontal until you can step back onto the face (crux). Move up the short face and belay on gear again.

Location

This route shares the same start as Linn Cove Lullaby. Go up the hill past Boardwalk and notice the "V-crack" in a large roof. Rap from the rings on Linn Cove Lullaby. A two rope rappel will reach the ground.

Protection

Nuts, TCU's, Tri-cams, and Camalots to #2, doubles in the small to medium size if you want to sew it up. All belays are on gear. Two ropes to rappel or a single 70m from Linn Cove anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Notice the v-crack.  This is the easiest way to identify Airlie.
[Hide Photo] Notice the v-crack. This is the easiest way to identify Airlie.
Tara finishing up pitch one
[Hide Photo] Tara finishing up pitch one
Entire route
[Hide Photo] Entire route
This pic shows my partner at the fixed gear rap station/swaged cable with ring at the top of BOG Man. We used this to skip P2 of Airlie and (with some backing up and directionals) set up a TR on BOG Man. <br>
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Pic should be handy for locating the anchor as it's pretty much due left and up from the V-crack. You may not see it when climbing Airlie P1 as you climb up and over it but it's easily reached via a belayed downclimb (10' or so). Nice way to just do Airlie P1 if you want.
[Hide Photo] This pic shows my partner at the fixed gear rap station/swaged cable with ring at the top of BOG Man. We used this to skip P2 of Airlie and (with some backing up and directionals) set up a TR on BO…
Partner sussing out the P1 crux... not necessarily a spoiler as I don't know if  this was the way he ended up pulling the move. There were three of us and I think we each did something different.
[Hide Photo] Partner sussing out the P1 crux... not necessarily a spoiler as I don't know if this was the way he ended up pulling the move. There were three of us and I think we each did something different.
At the first pitch belay
[Hide Photo] At the first pitch belay
David following P2 of Airlie.  The exciting traverse under the roof.
[Hide Photo] David following P2 of Airlie. The exciting traverse under the roof.
Me leading P1 of Airlie
[Hide Photo] Me leading P1 of Airlie

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jeff Mekolites
Atlanta, GA
 
[Hide Comment] A great option for finishing this route is the 5.11 overhang with the double cracks straight above the belay. Jun 30, 2010
Mike Holley
Boone, NC
[Hide Comment] Can't say enough good things about this climb! Both pitches have fantastic sequences. The first pitch is a bit runout to your first placement but great pro after that. Second pitch is short but dizzying exposure! Beautiful Climb, great exposure and great pro!! Oct 4, 2011
Adam Paashaus
Greensboro, NC
 
[Hide Comment] I'm with Mike, this climb is great. Easily one of the best 9's I've done anywhere!!! Great exposure, great movements, great stone, great views, just great all around! Oct 12, 2011
Cody Bradford
Boone, NC
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Be careful with your gear on the first section. Blowing it while trying to pull up on to the face with bad gear could be nasty. It is there, just take time to find it. Stellar climb all the way.
Be sure to stop and take in the air beneath your feet for the near entirety of this climb! Jun 18, 2012
Stuart Parker
Missoula, MT
[Hide Comment] Is it just me, or is the first pitch of this thing nerve wracking? ooof. Apr 26, 2014
Tom Caldwell
Clemson, S.C.
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Stuart, try the right variation start. It is much more well protected and moderate. It will take a lot of the sting out of that direct start runout. Oct 30, 2014
Jeff Dunbar
Ridgway, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Nice route with lots of variety, but its hard to imagine this is the best 5.9 in the state. Also, as my partner discovered, the P1 crux is MUCH harder for shorter people (<5'3"). Next time I'd do this in one pitch using lots of long slings. We rapped straight to the ground off the adjacent anchors for Linn Cove Lullaby with a single 70M. Jun 12, 2016
Russ Keane
Salt Lake
[Hide Comment] Very fun route! The direct "R" start is a little heady, but worth it for the cleaner line. Should be easy for anyone leading 5.9. Sep 16, 2017
Stephen McKinney
Columbia, SC
  5.9
[Hide Comment] This route was epic. Fun and varied climbing. Gear when you need it. A committing crux on pitch one and a heady traverse on pitch two to finish it. Just fantastic! May 27, 2019
Neil Rankin
Winston-Salem, NC
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Direct start is "R" but is harder than 5.6. Jul 25, 2019
Jim Urbec
Sevierville, TN
  5.9
[Hide Comment] the big square block on right side of dihedral before the P2 roof is loose. Sep 6, 2022
Adam Gallimore
Greensboro
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] I did a nice variation of the direct start. As opposed to staying in the dihedral to the left and pulling the roof direct, I went up the middle of the dark face to the mini roof and cut right to gain the original 5.6 start (had to follow slab ramp after roof). This felt in the 5.9+/10a range and definitely added some fun face-climbing moves to the pitch. Looking at the topo pic, it goes between the green and yellow lines. Aug 30, 2023