All Locations > Vermont > 1. Northern Ver… > Bolton Area > 82 Crag > 82 Main Wall

Crimp Chimp

Name: Crimp Chimp
Rating: 3.4

5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British PG13

Routes in 82 Main Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Arms Reduction T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
	Block Party T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Crimp Chimp T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Crème de la Choss S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Dirty Duo, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Flynnstone S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Kid Charlemagne S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Politics of Dancing, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Quills S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Truffle Hog T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	War on Drugs T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Year of the Dog T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

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Type:	Trad, 160 ft (48 m)
GPS:	44.37746, -72.86114
FA:	Alden Pellet
Page Views:	1,702 total · 9/month
Shared By:	Derek Doucet on Jun 13, 2010
Admins:	Jason Hayden, Kristen Fiore, Luc-514 Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures for access issues: please review cragvt.org Details

Access Issue: Trail leads between parcels of private land. Details

Follow the yellow bottle caps and pink flagging to ensure you remain on Crag-VT or Green Crow Logging property and not on private land.

Description

Climb the easy slab past 2 bolts to the obvious horizontal break. Surmount the break, then step up and right in to a thin, left angling crack system. This crack is difficult to see from below. Follow the crack up and left past a delicate sequence (5.9-) and make a moderate runout to lower angle rock and more gear. Now step up and right, and either belay at the 2-bolt anchor, or clip it long and continue up and slightly left on to the superb bolted face. Climb this sustained (5.9+) face all the way to the top of the cliff and a second fixed anchor. Done as one lead, this makes for a long and excellent pitch. It's also fun as 2 shorter pitches.

Location

Begin at the obvious, slightly mossy slab just up and right from point where the approach trail meets the cliff.

Protection

A few very small wires (#4 or 5 RP helpful), and single cams from fingers to tight hands. If climbing the route in one pitch (highly recommended!), 15+ draws and runners are needed. The 5.9+ crux section is very well protected. There is easier (5.9-) climbing protected in part by a tiny wire in schist. It looks as bomber as a tiny nut can, but one never knows...there is also some rather run out easier climbing. Nothing to be overly concerned about for a very solid 5.9 leader, but not a good route to dog one's way up!