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Routes in Bolt Boulder (Boulder Below Twins Owls)
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Hang Left A2 |
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Hangover Overhang C1-2 |
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Podophile "Sit" V11 8A |
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Podophile V9 7C |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
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Pop A Loose Nut V9 7C |
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V4 left of Pop A Loose Nut V4+ 6B+ |
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Vegetarians Love Granite C2+ |
| Type: | Boulder, 12 ft (4 m) |
| FA: | Tommy Caldwell |
| Page Views: | 2,019 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Captain Derp on Jun 5, 2010 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: 2024 Partial Seasonal Raptor Closures lifted 7/21/24
Details
Upper & Lower Twin Owls, Rock One, The Book and access trail, Bookmark, and Left Book were opened based on a park new release.
Closures have been extended for Thunder Buttress, access trail, The Parish, Cathedral Wall.
Closures above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond trail have been extended.
Per Brent Frazier: the raptor closures have been lifted in the Lumpy Ridge and Loch Vale Areas ( nps.gov/romo/raptor-closure…)
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Description
Climb bad slopers on the west face, right of the giant overhang. It looks like it tops out onto a slab that one can downclimb. I'm not sure, since I haven't done this problem. This looks pretty sick, so I thought I would post it.
Per Sean Patrick: start on the positive, 2 pad-deep, 3-4 finger pocket (from the ground if you're 6 foot+, or stack however many pads you need to reach it if you aren't), and fire up on good, positive slopers and a rad pinch/finger lock. The grade isn't determined by how you start in that pocket-- it's determined by the hard bit above.
The hard bit is manteling onto the slab above, which, incidentally, is a bit high, and over an ankle-turner. You'll need to grab some pretty small features, but they don't feel tweaky to me - just fun tech holds. I used a rope (40m?) to drop down and clean it off, which was expedient for the send for me in December 2022.
This is on one of the best boulders at Lumpy, is rarely done, and is worth a go if you are in the area. I think it's fair to say that it's good value for the grade.
The holds at 5 feet are for the "V11 sit" start and are polished to a greasy buff by every climber walking by for the past 50 years and feeling them and saying "this feels impossible". Damned techy for the V9/10 climber ape (i.e. me), the lower start also strikes me as good value for its grade.
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