Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
The Inside Passage
5.12c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British R
Avg: 3.5 from 2
votes
Routes in Flying Flatiron
|
|
Birth and Transmogrification TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
East Face Complete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Inside Passage, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
|
|
Less Talk, More Sauce T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X |
|
|
Satan's Toy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
|
|
Weak Sauce T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
| Type: | Trad, 75 ft (23 m) |
| FA: | Paul Glover, Christian Huber, Kirk Speers |
| Page Views: | 5,414 total · 30/month |
| Shared By: | Paul Glover on May 28, 2010 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Description
This is the largest overhang in Boulder and possibly the very best most neglected route in the region. By region I mean Earth.
The endless approach, coupled with hauling along a wall rack, will keep all the gym kids away, which is too bad, it might be fun to watch some hyper strong child whine they're way through a sketchy two hour on-sight on clicked-out cams as lifted wires rain on the belayer.
Ted Lanzano flashed this with the gear in situ and called it 12d. With gear in place this is a great route to run laps on.
Location
Halfway up the south side of the Flying Flatiron is a cave with an arch-like opening at the top. This huge "slot-cave" is clearly visible from the Maiden. An easy scramble gets you into the cave. The Inside Passage climbs the flake/crack system through the ceiling, exiting through the arch.
Protection
Rack to 3.5 Camalot and 2 No. 2 Camalots, if I remember correctly. 4-5 shoulder length runners, some extended further with draws. Think I placed 16 pieces. This was done as a head-point after aiding it the previous winter.
A green Alien way up and right protects the first move. Weight test it to make sure it is seated properly. Place a yellow Alien-sized cam in a ceiling crack just above the first piece, then downclimb, bail, and go do something actually fun, like crawling into some seedy spa for a secret bleaching.
At the transition from the crack to a large slanting deck at halfway (Pigeon Prow aka The Poop Deck), reach way left off huecos, and blindly fiddle in a medium wire behind a block with a horizontal crack on the edge of Pigeon Prow before pulling onto the prow. This block looks detached, like it's just sitting on the ledge, but it's fused, and I took an upside down whip on this piece on my first send attempt.
The collapsing A-frame beyond the Poop Deck protects with medium cams (place as many cams as you can before launching). A no hands rest on the upper end of the Poop Deck tames the overall grade considerably. Tug gingerly on the rattly trash of the A-frame. The crack above this leaning, teetering garbage is more reliable and gobbles a small nut, then an off-set yellow/green alien for the last piece before a massive horizontal bucket of glory and leisurely stroll to a tiny tree for an anchor. Bring a fresh sling, you will be the only visitor to this spot since many years.
3 Comments