Type: Trad, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Fred Beckey, Hank Mather, Don Claunch, 1959
Page Views: 7,059 total · 40/month
Shared By: Robert Fisher on May 26, 2010
Admins: Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

P1: Shares first pitch of Calculus Crack, climbing tree routes up to a large ledge.

From the ledge, head straight up.

P2: Climb the dual hand/finger cracks that are left of St Vitus and right of Calculus Crack.

Once at the next large tree'd ledge, find a faint, steep trail and climb upwards through the trees. Keep going until you hit rock. The trail climbs through the trees longer than you'd expect, so unless you're climbing trees/roots for 25+ feet, you're not in the right spot. 

P3: Climb the steep 3" crack for 20' where the angle backs down and the crack widens to 4"-5". Belay just below the obvious crux bulge, or at the flakes about 20' below. 5.8

P4: Climb through the bulge. It's easier than it looks. Climb up the 5.6 3" crack to a small dirt ledge, belay here on gear. 5.9 (crux)

P5: Scamper up the low-angle slab to the top, using the crack as necessary for pro. 5.4?

Descent:

Scramble to the top of Broadway ledge, or climb Memorial Crack (5.9), then walk down, or rappel from the tree'd ledge before Memorial Ledge. Find the brown rap anchors on the climbers left side of the ledge between the two down slab trees.

R1: Large chain from bolts (15m)

R2: Chain anchor station part way down the wall on a ledge (35m)

R2.5: If have a 60, there is a single bolt with a locker to the right for the remaining 5m

R3: Large chain anchor off tree (28m)

R4: Bolted anchor (25m)

Location Suggest change

Approach via the steep tree and dirt pitches (5.8, 5.8) of St. Vitus Dance or Calculus Crack. Take the steep trail with fixed line to the left of St Vitus Dance P1. This leads to a 3" crack; the first pitch of South Arete.

Protection Suggest change

Single rack to 1", doubles #2-#4 (Camalot sizes)

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