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Oregon
> Central Oregon
> Smith Rock
> (w) The Marsupials
> Brogan Spire
> Southside
West Face
5.5 YDS 4b French 13 Ewbanks IV+ UIAA 11 ZA MS 4a British X
Avg: 2.7 from 13
votes
Routes in Southside
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Barred Reality S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Cave Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Death Of a Raven S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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East Jesus Nowhere S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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L'Eggo My Eggo S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Party Animal S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Pigs in a Blanket S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Short Sharp Shock S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Smash the Silence S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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South Buttress T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X |
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Under the Gun S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Walking on Broken Glass S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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West Face T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Unknown, 1960's |
| Page Views: | 1,995 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Sean Patrick on May 25, 2010 |
| Admins: | Kevin Piarulli, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
Long, intimidating, exciting. The West Face, even at 5.5, scares people off regularly. It's probably because the rock is worst, and steepest at the very beginning of the route. By no means would I say, "Don't worry about that, it gets safer". If you are frightened by the start, don't go on. But if 5.5X sounds alright, this is a great route. Perhaps the only 5.5X in the Marsupials that can compete with it is the South Buttress of Brogan (ha ha).
But seriously, if you can abide with the runouts, this route is really fun. It's got almost entirely solid rock (just keep an eye out and you'll see the bad stuff), really fun moves, and great position. What's more, it's a long route, and ends on a cool summit.
It is a bit odd calling it a trad route, because it has no gear, and pretty much the only protection is provided by bolts, but then, I would never describe it as a sport route.
But seriously, if you can abide with the runouts, this route is really fun. It's got almost entirely solid rock (just keep an eye out and you'll see the bad stuff), really fun moves, and great position. What's more, it's a long route, and ends on a cool summit.
It is a bit odd calling it a trad route, because it has no gear, and pretty much the only protection is provided by bolts, but then, I would never describe it as a sport route.
Location
The West Face of Brogan starts by the notch at the downhill side of the Spire. The easiest descent (I think): Descend via the Cave Route by rapping off the summit. Rap again down the corner of the Cave Route's second pitch. Pass through the hole of the Cave Route, walk fifty feet across flat ground, and set up one more short rappel to the ground. A single 60 will get you down this way.
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