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> (c) Saddle Rocks - Ca…
Hey McLeod, Get Off of My Ewe
5.5 YDS 4b French 13 Ewbanks IV+ UIAA 11 ZA MS 4a British A3-
Avg: 2.5 from 2
votes
Routes in (c) Saddle Rocks - Cantle
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Crystal Calisthenics T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Darva T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Good Book, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hey McLeod, Get Off of My Ewe T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a A3- |
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Riding the Cotton Pony T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Todd Gordon, George Armstrong |
| Page Views: | 1,487 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Todd Gordon on May 19, 2010 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Mike Morley, C Miller, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Gunkswest |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This climb is located on the right side of the highest part of Saddle Rocks, just right of the start to The Good Book. This is an excellent and beautiful aid route and is great practice with RURPs/copperheads without seriously risking one's neck, because there are a few "chicken" bolts along the thin crack to safeguard against any super long falls. The route starts as an easy slab/apron (5.5, 1 bolt), then hits a head wall. A thin seam/crack runs the length of the head wall, but doesn't quite reach the slab. Aid off a second bolt, and ascend the thin crack on RURPs, beaks, and/or copperheads. This crack is supplemented with 3 "chicken" bolts, so you probably won't wet your pants on this section. Please leave the chicken bolts in place.
After awhile, the crack opens up to take RPs, TCUs, and stoppers. Rappel off one bolt and a runner around a horn (single 60 mm. rope, 100').
After awhile, the crack opens up to take RPs, TCUs, and stoppers. Rappel off one bolt and a runner around a horn (single 60 mm. rope, 100').
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