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White Dads On Rope
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3 from 2
votes
Routes in Grizzly Creek Wall (aka Mudwall)
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Behind the Curtain T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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DEFCON 1 T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Horse and Pony Show, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Mudflap Girl T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Orangina T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Stardust T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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White Dads On Rope T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 210 ft (64 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Tom Bohanon, Kelsey Bohanon, Tobin Sanson and Lynn Sanson |
| Page Views: | 1,666 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Lynn S on May 17, 2010 |
| Admins: | Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
Pitch 1 (5.11a/b) is a long sustained mixed pitch. It begins in a chossy, right-facing corner and climbs up and right to two bolts. There are two horizontal gear placements to get you to the bolts.
The crux comes passing the second bolt and getting established in a sweet, .4 Camalot-sized horizontal. Continue up on gear placements for 40 feet. You pick up a series of 3 bolts trending up and left. This climbing is on excellent rock.
The last 2 bolts are in somewhat chossy rock but the climbing is not as hard as below, break right to the obvious ledge. End at the second belay ledge of DEFCON 1.
Pitch 2 (11b) goes up and slightly right (4 bolts in excellent rock), skirting the right side of the obvious roof above, a long sling on the bolt under the roof is helpful.
This roof looks inviting but does have some hollow sounding sections. As you pass right of the roof you will encounter a 5 foot section of chossy rock, and then back into bullet quartzite with a bolt. There are a couple of horizontals in the choss but I did not want anyone placing gear in the hollow sections, so hence the bolt. The moves in the choss are in the 5.9 range and go by quickly.
Climb up passing some good horizontals for gear and 3 more bolts to a two bolt anchor on a ledge. As you surmount the last bulge to the anchor, look for a key sidepull on the left. The ledge still needs some cleaning so tread carefully.
The crux comes passing the second bolt and getting established in a sweet, .4 Camalot-sized horizontal. Continue up on gear placements for 40 feet. You pick up a series of 3 bolts trending up and left. This climbing is on excellent rock.
The last 2 bolts are in somewhat chossy rock but the climbing is not as hard as below, break right to the obvious ledge. End at the second belay ledge of DEFCON 1.
Pitch 2 (11b) goes up and slightly right (4 bolts in excellent rock), skirting the right side of the obvious roof above, a long sling on the bolt under the roof is helpful.
This roof looks inviting but does have some hollow sounding sections. As you pass right of the roof you will encounter a 5 foot section of chossy rock, and then back into bullet quartzite with a bolt. There are a couple of horizontals in the choss but I did not want anyone placing gear in the hollow sections, so hence the bolt. The moves in the choss are in the 5.9 range and go by quickly.
Climb up passing some good horizontals for gear and 3 more bolts to a two bolt anchor on a ledge. As you surmount the last bulge to the anchor, look for a key sidepull on the left. The ledge still needs some cleaning so tread carefully.
Location
White Dads starts 20 feet left of the 10b variation to DEFCON 1. Look for the shallow, chossy corner with two tightly spaced bolts about 20 feet up and you are there.
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