PRINT: Rock Climb Mosoraski, National Park of Paklenica

Mosoraski

5.10a, Sport, 1000 ft (303 m), 10 pitches,

Avg: 3.5 from 21 votes
FA: Kambic and Kilic 1957
International > Europe > Croatia > NP of Paklenica > Anica kuk > N Face G1-16

Description

If you climb much harder, there are better routes to do. Nevertheless, this is a CLASSIC! Probably the most climbed route on the face. It is rated 6a+ which translates to 5.10c. The crux pitch is a little polished from all the traffic, but didn't seem harder than 5.9. The first 7 pitches hover between 5.3 and 5.6. Pitches 6 and 7 should be linked, since 7 is super sort. This is plenty of warm up for the crux (pitch 8) which is a beautiful steep stemming corner. A pitch of 5.8 and one of 5.7 bring you to the top for spectacular views of the Adriatic! P1-4: Runout "5.4" climbing, with some route finding to find the bolts.P5: After the belay, go up, and then right around the corner. When you see a double bolt belay after approx 12m, don't go up the overhanging crack with all the bolts above it, but go right.P6-7: Link them, P7 is mostly a short (somewhat exposed) traverse to a corner.P8: Crux pitch (6a), Awkward crack/corner, but greatP9 -P10: FunGradingThe easy pitches are pretty sandbagged.GearBring a singles rack to place between the bolts.

Location

Hike to the base of Anica Kuk, shouldn't be too hard to find, it's the biggest thing in the park. Just right of center of the wall, is a left to right slab/ramp. Look for a giant carabiner! You'll know when you see it. This is the start of the route. There is some easy 3rd class to scramble up to ledges at the start.
To walk off the top, head up the ridge-line to the true summit and follow painted bulls-eyes down and around the NE and eventually back to the base. The route faces mostly North, and is in the shade all morning, It is a good way to avoid the heat of summer. If it is really hot, get off before the afternoon sun gets on it.

Protection

The whole route is bolted. Sometimes the bolts are so far apart it makes route finding difficult. With that said, it might be best to bring a light rack. All anchors are bolted. There seemed to be a string of anchors up the face. Probably to facilitate rescues rather than a rap route. When I asked someone if you could rap the route they laughed and laughed. But it seemed like you could find your way down, probably with 2 ropes if you had to...

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Victory!

Anica Kuk<br>
The route goes up right on the ramp on the left side of the photo...

Anica Kuk The route goes up right on the ramp on the left side of the photo...

the top

Rob pulling the lip at the top of the last pitch

Franziska coming up Pitch #9. Amazing diversity on every pitch!!

Looking down the sporty-bolted crux pitch

Looking down at the 2nd pitch

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

David Blaszka

I did this route two summers ago with a friend. I would highly recommend renting the guide book at the guide hut right at the start of the park. We only brought one rope, 12 quickdraws, and some slings. Don't be stupid, bring more gear. Some bolts were over 40ft apart, and yeah, it was easy climbing, but that's not safe. Half way up, maybe around the 6th pitch we hit a set of bolts that were too hard to climb. We were clearly off route. I traversed way left and then straight up a wet chimney using only my slings and rusty pitons I found in the wall to clip in. I went the full length of my rope until I found the next chains, and that's after setting up a new belay station under the wet chimney. We should have gone right. If I had trad gear this would have been much safer. Also bring two ropes, otherwise you really can't repel. Quite possibly deadly.

Overall, it was a fantastic route! The views were beautiful!

Sep 9, 2015

James Garrett
Salt Lake City, UT

This route is mega classic and the stone is wonderfully featured. Much diverse movement up 10 long pitches. The fixed pro is quite run out for all except the hardcore used to climbing harder grades. Anika Kuk makes for a fine adventure.
Take a set of Camalots to #3 and you may see yourself plugging them in to fill the huge gaps between the fixed hardware....and at least 12-14 draws. Big fun!
Follow the red dots for the walk off. Approach shoes are nice for descent. What a cool place!!

Sep 28, 2017

Alexandre Marques
Lisbon, PT

I wish I had run into your webpage before going up the route! The 2011 guidebook says it’s a fully bolted F5c with potential for 5-7 meter falls. The reality is more like a 6a with potentially deadly falls. Really hard to find the route at some points because bolts are really far apart. Found the supposed crux pitch easier than some of the other pitches. Bring gear to place in between bolts! Aug 10, 2019

Andrew Ishimaru
Colorado Springs, CO

Fun climb. We got a little off route on pitch 2 - stay left at the end of P1 for the proper anchor. Then trend right at the end of P2 towards the left facing wall. Don't follow the shiny new bolts, that's a different (6c) route. Be careful for loose rocks.

Runouts are huge but on easy climbing... Harder moves are all well protected. Oct 31, 2020

Brennan VanDyke
Rogers, AR

The climbing itself is pretty mediocre. Perhaps I've been a bit spoiled by easier American adventure multipitches, but the vast vast majority of this climb was just filter. There's no spot on the climb with memorable exposure. The crux pitch, while fun, feels like a greased up version of any 3 star granite corner I've climbed in the US.

That being said, the route is long, adventurous, and takes you near the top of an incredibly beautiful formation. I think if you're climbing harder you can skip this route, but it's still worth doing if you want an easier day out.

The upper pitches never get the sun during spring. The Bura winds blow straight up the wall. Be ready for it to be a bit chilly. Apr 20, 2022