Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
FA: | Hardware: Samet, Lanzano / FA: Jonathan Siegrist, 2010 |
Page Views: | 3,415 total · 19/month |
Shared By: | Jonathan Siegrist on Apr 30, 2010 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Access Issue: New Emergency Closure but 2018 Raptor Closure is Lifted
Details
As of May 16, 2018, per Flatirons Climbing Council: the raptor closures have been lifted here due to no or failed raptor nesting.
Emergency Raptor Closure of Der Freischutz and surrounding formations:
OSMP is enacting a closure to protect cliff nesting raptors at Der Freischutz on Dinosaur Mountain — please see the attached map. The closure includes the BUBBLE and the Dinosaur Eggs formations.
On Wednesday of this week, OSMP staff and volunteers observed that the prairie falcon pair that typically occupies Bear Creek Spire had relocated to the Der Freischutz formation.
The pair’s timing is in the ballpark that if they succeed and fledge young, the formation will open with other closures on or about July 31st.
As a result of the move, OSMP is lifting the closure for Bear Creek Spire.
Those approaching Overhang Rock from Mallory Cave trail will need to approach from Bear Creek Spire going forward or until Bear Canyon trail is reopened.
Emergency Raptor Closure of Der Freischutz and surrounding formations:
OSMP is enacting a closure to protect cliff nesting raptors at Der Freischutz on Dinosaur Mountain — please see the attached map. The closure includes the BUBBLE and the Dinosaur Eggs formations.
On Wednesday of this week, OSMP staff and volunteers observed that the prairie falcon pair that typically occupies Bear Creek Spire had relocated to the Der Freischutz formation.
The pair’s timing is in the ballpark that if they succeed and fledge young, the formation will open with other closures on or about July 31st.
As a result of the move, OSMP is lifting the closure for Bear Creek Spire.
Those approaching Overhang Rock from Mallory Cave trail will need to approach from Bear Creek Spire going forward or until Bear Canyon trail is reopened.
Description
To the left of the classic, exposed slabs, 'Sex', 'Drugs', '??' and 'Rock n Roll', there is a proud, jetting arete that hangs over the scattered boulders below. On the North-East face of this hanging arete is a brutal boulder problem of a route that requires thick skin and delicate body position.
Begin on the boulder as you would for 'Drugs', but climb up the slab directly beneath the arete past a couple bolts on easy 5.11 terrain. When you reach the base of the arete, the climbing gets a bit more difficult, but a jug around the right side allows for you to make your final clip (the last bolt is strictly for working the route and would be nearly impossible to clip on the go). From here, a short series of very difficult moves on worsening holds lies ahead of you, ending with two hard dead-points complete with an exciting fall potential.
I've suggested 5.13+ as a grade estimate, although due to the bouldery nature of the route some may find it easier or perhaps harder...have a go and let me know what you think!!
Begin on the boulder as you would for 'Drugs', but climb up the slab directly beneath the arete past a couple bolts on easy 5.11 terrain. When you reach the base of the arete, the climbing gets a bit more difficult, but a jug around the right side allows for you to make your final clip (the last bolt is strictly for working the route and would be nearly impossible to clip on the go). From here, a short series of very difficult moves on worsening holds lies ahead of you, ending with two hard dead-points complete with an exciting fall potential.
I've suggested 5.13+ as a grade estimate, although due to the bouldery nature of the route some may find it easier or perhaps harder...have a go and let me know what you think!!
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