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Top Choice

5.10-, Trad, TR, 30 ft (9 m),  Avg: 3.5 from 77 votes
FA: Bill Horton
Texas > Enchanted Rock… > Little Dome > Carnivore Boulders
Warning Access Issue: Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset DetailsDrop down

Description

Beautiful, left leaning crack that turns vertical and slightly overhanging halfway up. The route starts with a bouldery step into the seem between the Matterhorn and the Grade A boulder. Tight hands finishes with a bulge to the top.

Location

The route is the obvious west facing crack in-between the Matterhorn, Flathead and Grade A.

Protection

Medium Pro (.5-2). Set an anchor with medium pieces in the crack on top. Walk-off on the east side.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Daniel Conner cruising the crux
[Hide Photo] Daniel Conner cruising the crux
Maria pulling some moves on the #1 half of Top Choice
[Hide Photo] Maria pulling some moves on the #1 half of Top Choice
Derek pulling through the crux on lead. This perspective helps illustrate that the crux moves are on an overhanging portion of the boulder.
[Hide Photo] Derek pulling through the crux on lead. This perspective helps illustrate that the crux moves are on an overhanging portion of the boulder.
Approaching the Crux - photo by Patrick Hagan
[Hide Photo] Approaching the Crux - photo by Patrick Hagan
Top Choice,  Hight Octane on the left
[Hide Photo] Top Choice, Hight Octane on the left
Sweet #1 hand jams!
[Hide Photo] Sweet #1 hand jams!
Entering the beautiful hand crack.
[Hide Photo] Entering the beautiful hand crack.
The awesome start moves.
<br>
Climber from Oklahoma, Julie
[Hide Photo] The awesome start moves. Climber from Oklahoma, Julie
Awesome crack climb.
[Hide Photo] Awesome crack climb.
some guy we met
[Hide Photo] some guy we met
After making the top choice
[Hide Photo] After making the top choice
Midway through Top Choice.
[Hide Photo] Midway through Top Choice.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

D Graham
Washington, DC
 
[Hide Comment] we just went to this route the first of september and this crack is completely filled with bats and the foot high pile of guano at the base. Not disgusting, kinda cool, but enough to keep you off the climb. are bats in this crack a yearly thing or just seasonal? Aug 31, 2014
Derek Strittmatter
AUSTIN
 
[Hide Comment] I'm not sure if the bats are seasonal, but we climbed it on 1/24/15 and there were no signs of bats. Jan 25, 2015
Mikey Bui
Lafayette, LA
[Hide Comment] 3/29/15. Can confirm of the bats. Mar 30, 2015
[Hide Comment] Had a group climbing 4/10/2016. No bats that we could see.
Great crack lead climb, working the overhang takes a bit, but worth the work.
GGS Apr 11, 2016
[Hide Comment] One of my favorites in the park and my proudest send as of writing this (just got it yesterday 12-2-17). Bats were definitely there pretty late into the summer this year too. Dec 3, 2017
LexĂ­ Ro
Denver, CO
 
[Hide Comment] There aren't enough photos of this climb lmao Jul 21, 2020
[Hide Comment] Bats in the crack July 2020: youtu.be/0WaVECXwkLQ Jul 29, 2020
[Hide Comment] No bats or guano. This is 2023 though. Some hard moves given the lack of feet on the left face. Bomber jug at the top. Feb 6, 2023
Nicholas van Rensburg
San Antonio, TX
  5.10-
[Hide Comment] Climbed this on 4/09/23 and there was a stopper stuck deep in the crack in the overhang. The loop on the end of the wire was right in the vicinity of my finger when trying to jam. Watch out that your finger doesn't get stuck. Apr 14, 2023