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> Last Temptation Cliff
Live Monkey Brain
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.1 from 34
votes
Routes in Last Temptation Cliff
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Lobotomy S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Death & Taxes TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Chimps in Negligee T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Charlie's Angel S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Don't Do Crack Kids T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Go I Know Not Whither and Bring Back I Know Not What T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Weather the Wither (AKA Fish Taco) T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 |
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Live Monkey Brain S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Sunset Arete S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Sport, TR, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | Bruce Morris, Don Simmons 1992 |
| Page Views: | 2,698 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Daniel Trugman on Apr 23, 2010 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am.
Details
Trails close at sunset. Give yourself enough time to be back at your vehicle (or campsite if you're staying at one) before dark, or the rangers will fine you.
Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.
Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.
Description
A very nice, sustained, thin-face route. Well protected.
Crank a couple of moves on nice jugs that set you up for a strenuous first clip. Thin edging and smearing leads to a surprise "thank god" jug and a well-earned rest. Clip the third bolt and dance through the crimpy crux sequence. The difficulty backs off just past the fourth bolt, though you don't ever really get that top-out jug you are hoping for. Easy terrain leads to one more 5.9ish move just below the anchors (protected by the fifth bolt).
Crank a couple of moves on nice jugs that set you up for a strenuous first clip. Thin edging and smearing leads to a surprise "thank god" jug and a well-earned rest. Clip the third bolt and dance through the crimpy crux sequence. The difficulty backs off just past the fourth bolt, though you don't ever really get that top-out jug you are hoping for. Easy terrain leads to one more 5.9ish move just below the anchors (protected by the fifth bolt).
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