Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Fucking Fall

5.11a, Sport, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 3.1 from 20 votes
FA: Laurence Huen or Steven Wang (Unsure!)
International > Asia > Taiwan > 1. Long Dong (D… > (4) Music Hall

Description

In the main area of Music Hall (facing the sea), the leftmost line of bolts. Start with a finger crack leading to round holds, passing a few large horizontal cracks. The crux (between 5th and 6th bolts) requires a bit of balance, and leads to a nice ledge with the anchors.
Originally rated 5.11b, but way easier (more like 5.10d, possibly even c). A fun route with great rests, and great for climbers working on harder 10's, The name comes from an alleged near-groundfall during the all-gear first ascent.

Protection

Titanium (2016/17)

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Morris Chen trying not to take a fu**ing fall on Fu**ing Fall, Music Hall.
[Hide Photo] Morris Chen trying not to take a fu**ing fall on Fu**ing Fall, Music Hall.
Music Hall main face <br> <br> Green = Harp / Finger Crack <br> Cyan = Big Drum <br> Blue = Fucking Fall
[Hide Photo] Music Hall main face Green = Harp / Finger Crack Cyan = Big Drum Blue = Fucking Fall
Chester on the bouldery start
[Hide Photo] Chester on the bouldery start

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Nate Ball

  5.10+
[Hide Comment] This route is a real balance test, with many chalked ruse-holds. At 5'8" some of the juggy rest holds are just out of my reach, creating a pre- and post-crux. You will find yourself wandering across the bolt line a couple of times. This route is definitely closer to 50 feet long - I mean, there are seven bolts - but I suppose that's just nitpicking. Probably could be .10d, but I'm calling it .11a for personal satisfaction. We'll see what the book says in May. Apr 6, 2011
Anmin Deng
Panchiao, Taipei, TW
[Hide Comment] I personally talked to the respectable senior climber who claimed FA'ed on this route. He calls this route "79 Finals" and hates others call it 'F--- fall'. This route was established in 1990 or ROC year of 79th for the finals of 1990 Taiwan national rock climbing championship. The 'F--- fall' is referred to the climbers who nearly-ground fell when established the route, but, as far as he knows, they actually did not successfully free climbed the route at that time. Mar 22, 2012
Danger
Taipei City
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] Great climbing with good rests at 1/3 and 2/3rd through

Key beta: skip the always-chalked diagonal sloper Feb 2, 2014
Nate Ball

  5.10+
[Hide Comment] Okay so the route is published in the most recent book as "Fucking Fall." This is the name that everybody uses, including a majority of Taiwanese. Apparently Milk claims the FFA, and would prefer it to be called "79 Finals" - not "97 Finals" which makes no sense as it would have to refer to the Christian calendar, which is not what Anmin mentioned above.

For the sake of clarity, can we just list the route here as "Fucking Fall"? Oct 19, 2014
Huang Li Ting
 
[Hide Comment] Use cam and the last bolt to the top , build anchor there to avoid rope drag. Nov 13, 2014