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Teeny Face
5.10a,
Trad, 120 ft (36 m), 2 pitches,
Avg: 3.6 from 185
votes
FA: Mike Schneider
New York
> Gunks
> Trapps
> i. High E
Description
Halfway up the second pitch of Insuhlation, traverse straight left on good holds to a short, right-facing corner. Make a reach to a huge horizontal, then climb the face (crux) straight to the bolted rap station.
Most people would consider this to be a variation to Insuhlation rather than a separate route, but who cares; the climbing is great.
Location
Go right past the High Exposure buttress to the start of Insuhlation.
[Hide Comment] It is a whole route. From the ground, boulder up the face of the flake to the ledge. Continue up yellowish face through the double overhang to the stance follow shallow corner right to the steep face. Make the reach to the horizontal, and climb the clean boulder problem-like face.
This was very 80s three or four pieces of gear but always at the hard bits. With todays small cams it must be G/PG.
edit: - 4/12/18 - Doh! (Frank,no not this route)At the time I was going out with Marteine Suhl, the niece of Claude - who was on the FA of Insuhlation-.Thus the play on her name matching up with the small orange face at the top (Mar) Teeny Face, next to her uncles route ! It had never been climbed before I cleaned out a ton of loose rock. 2 huge standing flakes, that were "teeter-totter" stacked & never climbed past took some "persuading" . That spot is now the short shallow "sentry box" Go climb it and reward yourself with a Gimlet or a Martini
Apr 26, 2014
[Hide Comment] One of the best routes at the gunks. Not sure why it's not a classic. A yellow camalot is very useful after the second crux. Bring extra small cams. Can descend with one 60 m rope with two rappels.
Jun 3, 2014
[Hide Comment] It's not a classic because the start is poorly protected 5.4 climbing and the good stuff is high up. It's a great route. Best done going up the middle roof, closest to the arete, at a left facing notch. This keeps the grade more consistent and the line more independent of Insuhlation.
*Gear beta**
Small cams from #00 to #1 metolius + green alien #2 camalot bomber for the high crux... looks like a long ride.
Oct 31, 2016
[Hide Comment] There is a decent #4 placement halfway up the first pitch. That said, it's 5.4 and if you are contemplating leading the 5.10a above the 5.4 should not be an issue. Overall a great route, but just link the pitches.
A standard 70 m rope will just barely not make it for the rap. If you have a 70 on the longer side... maybe. Ours did.
Sep 14, 2017
[Hide Comment] our 70 made it down w stretch. ends were chest high without stretch. I was happy to have 0,00,000 C3s and placed them all below the crux section. Probably my new Gunks favorite.
Oct 7, 2019
[Hide Comment] 70m makes it down with stretch - tie end knots close to the end of rope and just swing around climber's left to the raised uphill section of the ground.
Nov 1, 2020
[Hide Comment] Highly recommend if you're breaking into the grade (my first Gunks 10). One somewhat tenuous move to a crimp on the yellow headwall. Do it in one long pitch! Knot at the end of rope recommended.
Sep 25, 2024
[Hide Comment] When entering the first roof, you reach up to a massive block that feels solid. It doesn't move in a downward pull, but the entire rail will shift if you push it upwards. You won't notice this when climbing normally, but people should know in-case this block comes down one day and hurts someone. The horizontal looks prime for eating gear, and my partner and I both put gear there. In fact, my partner even whipped on this gear and it held. But heads up because one day it might not - there may be other gear in the area but skipping it makes the bottom crux more R.
And speaking of loose blocks, there is a not so obvious loose chunk 5-10 feet high on the climb which I did not have gear for when pulling on.
Nov 29, 2024
Avg: 3.6 from 185
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This was very 80s three or four pieces of gear but always at the hard bits. With todays small cams it must be G/PG.
edit: - 4/12/18 - Doh!
(Frank,no not this route)At the time
I was going out with Marteine Suhl, the niece of Claude - who was on the FA of Insuhlation-.Thus the play on her name matching up with the small orange face at the top (Mar) Teeny Face, next to her uncles route !
It had never been climbed before I cleaned out a ton of loose rock. 2 huge standing flakes, that were "teeter-totter" stacked & never climbed past took some "persuading" . That spot is now the short shallow "sentry box"
Go climb it and reward yourself with a Gimlet or a Martini Apr 26, 2014
Seattle, WA
Las Vegas, NV
Best done going up the middle roof, closest to the arete, at a left facing notch. This keeps the grade more consistent and the line more independent of Insuhlation.
Small cams from #00 to #1 metolius + green alien
#2 camalot bomber for the high crux... looks like a long ride. Oct 31, 2016
Watertown, MA
A standard 70 m rope will just barely not make it for the rap. If you have a 70 on the longer side... maybe. Ours did. Sep 14, 2017
Pasadena, CA
Awesome orange rock.
In this photo, you can see that clean orange face.
Seattle, WA
Jersey
Montvale, NJ
Northern NJ
And speaking of loose blocks, there is a not so obvious loose chunk 5-10 feet high on the climb which I did not have gear for when pulling on. Nov 29, 2024