Type: | Trad, 360 ft (109 m), 4 pitches |
FA: | Jay Smith, Randal Grandstaff. 1986 |
Page Views: | 3,306 total · 19/month |
Shared By: | J. Thompson on Apr 13, 2010 |
Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen |
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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Pitch 1: Start on low angle rock heading for the bottom of the obvious corner/crack system. Do a couple of funky layback/stem moves to get into the corner. Get used to funky stems and laybacks. Continue up the corner until it is possible to step left into another crack, this is near a tree growing from the crack. Continue up this crack system to a small triangular ledge. Belay off of cams and nuts. Be sure to save something in the .75 to#1 Camalot range. 5.10-, 135ft.
Pitch 2: Climb the corner above into a short squeeze chimney with a small roof at it's top. Place gear at the top of the chimney then step back down a bit and traverse left across a fragile white face. Climb up to the left side of a larger roof, climbing around it on the left. Continue up the varnished corner above to a small ledge on the right and belay. There is a fixed nut and jammed knot here.5.10- R,70ft.
Pitch 3: Climb up and left from the belay. You will climb over a section of large blocks and flakes. at the obvious top of this section step back right into the main corner system. Climb into a short chimney, capped by a small roof. Climb out the left side of the roof using unique body positions. Climb up to a small, blocky, broken ledge on the right and belay. 5.10-, 110ft.
Pitch 4: The money pitch! Do some thin moves up off the belay, leading to another short slot. Find some good gear. Climb out the left side of the slot using powerful, corner switching laybacks. Plug in some gear and power through to more good holds. just as the crack/seam starts to arch left do a face traverse back right into the main corner. Climb up the obvious varnished ramp on the right to a 2 bolt anchor(not very good), belay. 5.11a, 50ft.
To descend make 2 or 3 rappels down and to the left of the route. Left of the route.
Pitch 2: Climb the corner above into a short squeeze chimney with a small roof at it's top. Place gear at the top of the chimney then step back down a bit and traverse left across a fragile white face. Climb up to the left side of a larger roof, climbing around it on the left. Continue up the varnished corner above to a small ledge on the right and belay. There is a fixed nut and jammed knot here.5.10- R,70ft.
Pitch 3: Climb up and left from the belay. You will climb over a section of large blocks and flakes. at the obvious top of this section step back right into the main corner system. Climb into a short chimney, capped by a small roof. Climb out the left side of the roof using unique body positions. Climb up to a small, blocky, broken ledge on the right and belay. 5.10-, 110ft.
Pitch 4: The money pitch! Do some thin moves up off the belay, leading to another short slot. Find some good gear. Climb out the left side of the slot using powerful, corner switching laybacks. Plug in some gear and power through to more good holds. just as the crack/seam starts to arch left do a face traverse back right into the main corner. Climb up the obvious varnished ramp on the right to a 2 bolt anchor(not very good), belay. 5.11a, 50ft.
To descend make 2 or 3 rappels down and to the left of the route. Left of the route.
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