Matt Lisenby
|
[Hide Comment] FA: Kim & Matt Lisenby in about 2005. Location: between Tender Vittles and the Line King. Glad this route is posted up, I couldn't recall what we named it. Does anyone have a good photo of this one? I recall using a large cam in a horizontal to make the opening move safer. If you like this route, you'll probably like "my little friend" at scarface and "the Doghouse" on the cat wall - both are more technical than your average IC crack.
Apr 21, 2010
|
Moritz B.
|
[Hide Comment] Pulled the fixed nut out while on TR. Was highly suspect.
Dec 1, 2014
|
Josh Janes
5.12b
|
[Hide Comment] It may have held a lead fall, it may not have. Or, it may have held body weight or it may not have. I think it's a bummer to make the call to pull it out while on TR. I can only assume that someone put the rope up for you - did that person clip the fixed wire? They may have thought it was suspect (as did I), but did they clip it? Personally, I was glad that wire was there even though I did not test it.
Dec 1, 2014
|
Moritz B.
|
[Hide Comment] Josh, my buddy Scott who led the pitch actually hung on the wire (bodyweight only). It held the bodyweight. When I TR´ed it, the nut just came out once I touched the draw attached to it. I didn´t rip it out yet I also didn´t put it back in place, which would have been bad style in my opinion. Whoever is planning on repeating the route might consider bringing slider nuts for the spot where the nut was.
Dec 8, 2014
|