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Portly Gentleman's Route
5.12c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 4 from 9
votes
Routes in 7) Orchard Wall
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Portly Gentleman's Route T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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White-Out T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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God of Fire T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Bisect T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Bisected Anus Toprope TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Anal Clenching Adventures T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Triple Treat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Springboard T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Lewd Operator T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mighty Stoat, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Shiny Faces T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Hysteria T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Total Sex Package S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Optical Illusion T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Alex Carr 1988 |
| Page Views: | 3,395 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | camhead on Apr 5, 2010 · Updates |
| Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
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Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS
Details
All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.
Description
Ultra classic hard trad route!
Short handcrack splitter to some juggy steep stuff, and then a steeper thin hands and finger crack in a corner. Stemming will help you save juice for later; you'll need it! There is a fixed piece at the top of this dihedral. From here, hand traverse out a very airy ledge to an awkward heel-toe stance below the final headwall. Set a bomber piece (or two), and pray that your v-bouldering skills are up to par for the crux headwall's amazing combination of tips locks and sidepull slaps. Two-bolt anchor.
Short handcrack splitter to some juggy steep stuff, and then a steeper thin hands and finger crack in a corner. Stemming will help you save juice for later; you'll need it! There is a fixed piece at the top of this dihedral. From here, hand traverse out a very airy ledge to an awkward heel-toe stance below the final headwall. Set a bomber piece (or two), and pray that your v-bouldering skills are up to par for the crux headwall's amazing combination of tips locks and sidepull slaps. Two-bolt anchor.
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