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Untenable
5.11c,
Sport, 60 ft (18 m),
Avg: 2 from 8
votes
FA: Vaino Kodas, Jen Payne 2009
New Mexico
> Santa Fe Area
> Diablo Canyon
> Grotto
> Grotto Right (W Side)
Access Issue: Access Issue for Areas in BLM Taos Field Office Lands
Details
Per the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Taos Field Office's (
blm.gov/office/taos-field-o…) 2012 Taos Resource Management Plan (RMP) (
bit.ly/2Kab3HO), "Installation of new rock climbing routes or hardware will require pre-approval by the BLM." The RMP is the document that guides all the BLM management in a given field office. Climbers are asked to respect this guidance and not install new bolts or fixed hardware on Taos Field Office BLM land without pre-approval from the BLM. NM CRAG (
nmcrag.org/) is currently working with the BLM Taos Field Office to establish specific guidance for new route development in the district and they hope to have a formal process in the near future.
Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are:
The Shack,
Winter Wall,
Solar Cave,
Lake Street and
Styx.
Description
Another fun new climb in the Upper Grotto. Thanks Vaino and Jen!
The first half of the climb consists of (mostly) 5.8 climbing on a super positive, low angle arete, ending on a ledge.
At this point, things get interesting. Make a few tricky moves to get established on the arete. Thin, technical arete climbing (crux) guards the ninth clip, but it is easy to go for it as you are never high above the last bolt. From here, a few casual moves lead to the anchor.
Location
"Untenable" is on the same formation as "Where the Wild Things Aren't", "Tweak Fuck" etc:
On the upper right side of the Grotto, walk past
Tweak Fuck and its neighboring
Crystal Clear Arête climb. Scramble around the corner on blocks, and look to your right to find "Untenable". It is the route left of
Dopesmoker.
Protection
10 bolts to a two-bolt anchor with rap rings.
Tightly bolted: you can backclean a few bolts, but you probably don't want to try it in the middle of the crux.
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