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Routes in Grotto Right (West Side)
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666 S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Bong Crack (a.k.a. Surficial Scratch) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Box of Chocolates S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Buck Tooth (AKA Spearhead) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Class Act S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Crack Wars T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Crystal Clear Arête S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Dopesmoker S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Happy Face (AKA Kitchen Sink) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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In the Court of the Crimson King S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Leper Messiah S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Rickety Rock S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Ruffles Have Ridges T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Sin after Sin S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Tenable S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Trailer Park Girls S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Tweak Fuck S,TR 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Unknown S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Untenable S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Venarete S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Where the Wild Things Aren't S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Where the World Ends T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Winter Capacity S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Winter Warm-up T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Woogie's Wild Ride S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Vaino Kodas, Jen Payne 2009 |
| Page Views: | 790 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Daniel Trugman on Mar 26, 2010 |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Access Issue for Areas in BLM Taos Field Office Lands
Details
Per the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Taos Field Office's ( blm.gov/office/taos-field-o…) 2012 Taos Resource Management Plan (RMP) ( bit.ly/2Kab3HO), "Installation of new rock climbing routes or hardware will require pre-approval by the BLM." The RMP is the document that guides all the BLM management in a given field office. Climbers are asked to respect this guidance and not install new bolts or fixed hardware on Taos Field Office BLM land without pre-approval from the BLM. NM CRAG ( nmcrag.org/) is currently working with the BLM Taos Field Office to establish specific guidance for new route development in the district and they hope to have a formal process in the near future.
Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.
Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.
Description
Another fun new climb in the Upper Grotto. Thanks Vaino and Jen!
The first half of the climb consists of (mostly) 5.8 climbing on a super positive, low angle arete, ending on a ledge.
At this point, things get interesting. Make a few tricky moves to get established on the arete. Thin, technical arete climbing (crux) guards the ninth clip, but it is easy to go for it as you are never high above the last bolt. From here, a few casual moves lead to the anchor.
The first half of the climb consists of (mostly) 5.8 climbing on a super positive, low angle arete, ending on a ledge.
At this point, things get interesting. Make a few tricky moves to get established on the arete. Thin, technical arete climbing (crux) guards the ninth clip, but it is easy to go for it as you are never high above the last bolt. From here, a few casual moves lead to the anchor.
Location
"Untenable" is on the same formation as "Where the Wild Things Aren't", "Tweak Fuck" etc:
On the upper right side of the Grotto, walk past Tweak Fuck and its neighboring Crystal Clear Arête climb. Scramble around the corner on blocks, and look to your right to find "Untenable". It is the route left of Dopesmoker.
On the upper right side of the Grotto, walk past Tweak Fuck and its neighboring Crystal Clear Arête climb. Scramble around the corner on blocks, and look to your right to find "Untenable". It is the route left of Dopesmoker.
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