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Routes in Disappearing Buttress
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Adam's Rib T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Escape Plan T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Haul for Nothing T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Maraschino Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Missing Nothing T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Ms. Management T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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No Country for Young Men T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pricks and Ticks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Prime Rib T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sunday Cruise T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Vanishing Act T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 5 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Sendi Kalcic, Larry DeAngelo |
| Page Views: | 1,612 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Larry DeAngelo on Mar 25, 2010 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen |
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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
This route has sections of excellent climbing on excellent rock. Other parts of it are not as good. The climb's name relates to the fact that this was Sendi's first new route in Red Rock. She is a wilderness planner with the Bureau of Land Management...
Start just left of the toe of the buttress and go up the left side of a brushy alcove to the left of Prime Rib. Pass a large chockstone on its left and belay on a large ledge. Climb above the left side of the ledge to a big right-facing corner with a bulge at its base. Climb the corner and continue up the crack system for a few hundred feet until the gully becomes blocked by a short, narrow chimney. Climb the chimney. At the top of the chimney, the FA party continued up the face to its left on unprotected face climbing; there might be better options to the right.
Start just left of the toe of the buttress and go up the left side of a brushy alcove to the left of Prime Rib. Pass a large chockstone on its left and belay on a large ledge. Climb above the left side of the ledge to a big right-facing corner with a bulge at its base. Climb the corner and continue up the crack system for a few hundred feet until the gully becomes blocked by a short, narrow chimney. Climb the chimney. At the top of the chimney, the FA party continued up the face to its left on unprotected face climbing; there might be better options to the right.
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