[Hide Comment] Fun climb. Bottom half is sport and then after the undercling flake it turns into trad in the 5.4 range. Tons of trees to lasso on the way up. Top this one out! Oct 10, 2011

[Hide Comment] Calling this a "sport" climb is a little misleading since it requires placing gear in several spots. A good climb if you lead trad or are learning to. Make sure to bring some longer cord to set up the belay at the top - there are plenty of boulders and trees you can sling. Apr 21, 2013

[Hide Comment] Could be done without any trad gear if comfortable on real easy terrain. Could use some cleaning though at the top Jun 9, 2016

[Hide Comment] Two bolt anchor and rings at the top as of 10/30/16. Personally I found the climbing more enjoyable, consistent, and easier than Melungian Brotherhood. Oct 30, 2016

[Hide Comment] I led this on April 1, 2017. The two anchor bolts at the top are in good condition. Be sure to have a 70m rope if you plan on lowering vs. topping out; you'll use ever last inch of it! The slab portion at the beginning was underwhelming, but after pulling over the first bulge, the climbing becomes fantastic. Don't forget to enjoy the view as you cruise through the second half.

The "small tree" mentioned in the beta should be the first one you see in your path; head to the left of it or you'll run into rope trouble. Apr 2, 2017

[Hide Comment] Anchor:
Good condition, Bring an extended anchor setup for the top as most of the climbs at this length have massive amounts of drag and may not even be long enough to reach the ground.

Pro:
Bring a few pieces of gear (finger to hand sized 0.75, 1, .5) as the route has not protection over much of the upper section.
You can sling the tree but I wouldnt trust it as my only piece past the overhand. Jul 16, 2018

[Hide Comment] Run out towards the top if you didn't bring trad gear. Its a pretty long run out too, if you're comfortable at the grade its very manageable, the climbing during the run out is cruiser. Apr 28, 2019

[Hide Comment] This was a super fun mixed sport/trad climb! Perfect for those who are more comfortable leading higher sport grades than trad. The climbing is really only a bit tricky at the bottom but is well bolted. Past that its pretty smooth sailing trad climbing with good placement for lots of pieces. We only had a 60m rope but the bolted anchors at the top made for an easy belay from above and its close enough to the main trail to top out from. Jul 5, 2022

[Hide Comment] Older comments are accurate. The bottom section requires some moderately good slab footwork and finger crimps. Bring some active cams for the top half, but it’s very easy to climb, almost a ladder. If you’re comfortable free climbing a 5.4, go for it; or protect yourself for confidence booster. Beautiful route for easy lead training. Don’t place cams in hollow flakes (does that need to be stated?). Go left at the tree in the middle to follow the route.

Also, the beta currently says 130ft but that can only be from the very bottom of the Class 3 scramble to the belay ledge, from here it’s more like 110ft or less; we had plenty of extra using our 80m rope. However the Melungian Brotherhood says 120ft but has anchors higher up and the guys next to us ran out of 70m of rope and had to figure out a way to get down Oct 21, 2024