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Even Cowgirls Get the Blues
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British PG13
Avg: 2.7 from 3
votes
Routes in Wild Horse Wall
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Bronc, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Even Cowgirls Get the Blues T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Mustang Sally S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Wailing Banshee T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 125 ft (38 m) |
| FA: | 1986 Jim Waugh, Frank Valendo |
| Page Views: | 1,114 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | bgarrett on Mar 8, 2010 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Access Issue: PLACING BOLTS IS ILLEGAL IN THE SUPERSTITION WILDERNESS!
Details
In the early '90's the USFS banned all placement of bolts in the Superstition Wilderness. This unfortunately includes replacement of existing bolts. Violating this ban may result in climbing restrictions on this beautiful area. Please think twice and go bolt somewhere else.
Description
Excellent climb! Exciting to lead; I thought it was a bit runout on the mid and upper part of the route, and ALL of 5.9 (10A?). As with Wailing Banshee, a stick clip would be nice for the first bolt, though at least the landing is good. Start just left of the Bronc, and make a difficult, heady move to clip the first bolt. Then follow the bolts up for some thrilling and great climbing. About 80 feet up, step slightly right and climb an obvious 20 foot 5.7/8 crack to the top. Look out for loose rock at the top of the crack. Step left to a large ledgy area and find two old bolts for the belay.
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