The Usual Suspects
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 2.3 from 12 votes
Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
FA: | Richard Aschert, Bob D'Antonio & Vanio Kodas |
Page Views: | 1,554 total · 9/month |
Shared By: | Monomaniac on Feb 26, 2010 · Updates |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This is a fun climb on mostly good rock that is fairly thin & powerful for the grade.
Begin with an easy mantle onto a spooky perched block above the low ledge (careful not to pull this block off the ledge). Hike up several more tiered ledges and precarious blocks to a stance below the clean wall. Make sure your belayer is watching as you step onto the instantly cruxy panel. A sustained section of sequential pockets & crimps leads past several bolts to a horizontal break. Cruise easier spikey rock to the anchor.
Begin with an easy mantle onto a spooky perched block above the low ledge (careful not to pull this block off the ledge). Hike up several more tiered ledges and precarious blocks to a stance below the clean wall. Make sure your belayer is watching as you step onto the instantly cruxy panel. A sustained section of sequential pockets & crimps leads past several bolts to a horizontal break. Cruise easier spikey rock to the anchor.
Location
10' left of the shared start of "New Ethics" & "Midget Toss", begin directly behind the 15' juniper pine south of the trail.
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