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Eyes of the World

5.11a PG13, Sport, 115 ft (35 m),  Avg: 3.3 from 12 votes
FA: unknown
Arizona > Central Arizona > Queen Creek Canyon > Lower Devil's C… > Glitter Box Area
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Description

Excellent rock, great length, and fun, fun, fun. Guide book suggests 11a. Climbs more like a 10b/c.

Protection

About 9 bolts and maybe a cam or two to thwart a 25-30 foot runout to the anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

maybe half way? up.
[Hide Photo] maybe half way? up.
Me near the top.  Climbing eases up about here.  What a route!
[Hide Photo] Me near the top. Climbing eases up about here. What a route!

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Dwight Jugornot
Arvada, Co.
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] My favorite route in The Glitter Box area. Sustained at the grade. The crux is really just the over-all length of the thing. Sheesh. The anchors are waaaay around up and to the right. Getting to the anchors was the PG-13 part. Mar 9, 2012
Joshua Munoz
Honolulu, HI
 
[Hide Comment] The bolts are very far to the right of the route. They face the West. If you warm up on three amigos you can see the bolts at the top so you know where to go.

If you mantle to the very top of the route just make sure you don't have any pro too high up or else it will cause a lot of rope drag if you have someone who is going to follow climb to clean it up.

I placed a second cam near the top before I topped it out and once I had my PA's in I realized I had to traverse back to the cam and remove it so that the rope drag wasn't bad. I suggest once you're near the top just traverse to the right and anchor in. Feb 9, 2016
Neil Kauffman
Bishop, CA
  5.11
[Hide Comment] Felt harder than Proto-Pipe, which is rated 11b. Calling this 5.10 is such a sandbag! Unfortunately the bolts look worse for the wear for such a great climb. Feb 14, 2017
Brett Beiser
Phoenix, AZ
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] I don't know why people don't say what gear to bring to prevent the run out... kind of silly to me.
I placed a one Orange Metolius above the last bolt and one Blue Metolius right at the bulge to the right and felt very safe.
However, having some slings and a .75 would make many people feel even better in some spots.

Great route! If you have the right gear its definitely not PG13. Oct 5, 2019
[Hide Comment] 10 bolts. Counted 'em yesterday. Older SMC style thin metal bolt hangers. 9th bolt has a bail quick link on it. Jan 5, 2025