Gandalf's Beard

Great ice route with amazing views. Worth it just to see North Chasm View Wall in the winter. Travel for 3-4 miles on the South Chasm View Road (skis or snowshoes needes) past Devil's Overlook. Pass one yellow sign, then a large boulder on the left. From here, you will pass a bend and pass another yellow street sign. Travel another 30-40 meters and enter the drainage immediately to your right. Descend a few hundred feet down the gulley/drainage through willows and thickets until you reach the mouth of the ice. Right on top of the climb is a boulder with 2 bolts for rappel. Rappel to the tree where you will make your second rappel. Some snow walking is necessary to reach the tree but it isn't far or steep. Once you reach the bottom of the second rappel, pull ropes and chose the line that is best for you.

P1) There is an easy gully, maybe WI3 and there are some mixed lines. We chose a small, steep pillar on the right side. Belay at the tree. 100 feet.

P2) WI3-WI5 We chose the intermediate ice at about WI4+ in the middle of the fall. To the left is WI3 and to the right is WI5. About 160-180 feet.

From US Hwy 50, take CO Hwy 347 to the Black Canyon Visitor's Center. It is about 5 miles from US Hwy 50. Park at the Visitor's Center. (Note: there are no park entry fees in the winter.) Grab a wilderness permit. Put your skis on and head on down the road. The guidebook says the ski takes about an hour. Allow for at least that if you are a fast skier. I recommend you allow an hour and a half to two hours for the approach.

Some rock pro for anchors, long slings for the tree, medium-large screws. 2 ropes for rappel.