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Routes in The Gym
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Arrowhead Spire S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mountaineer's Route S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Dizzi Lizzi S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Up Valley Goes Downtown S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Black Mamba Arete S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Urban Fringe S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Oh... What Are You Looking At S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Shorty Bob S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pulley Mammoth S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Natty Dread S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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New Vernacular, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Ga-stoned Again S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Raw and the Roasted, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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In the Morning, You'll Be Mine S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Cask Strength S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Tomato, Tomotto S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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St. Patty's Slab S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Blast from the Past S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Rally Monkey S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Stud with a Rug S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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She's Got a Full Set of Camalots! T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Three Stooges S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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New Rule S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Tapped Out S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Untapped S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Free Willie V1-2 5 |
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Farewell Transmission S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crimp and Punishment S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Our Bosch of Immaculate Conception S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Senor Verde S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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S&M Crack S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Bolt the Planet S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Prickly Pear S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Librium Quiver S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Penitentiary Pump S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Even Bad Dogs Get A Bone S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Rio Station S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Must Love Dogs S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Butt Flambé S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Here Today Gone Tomorrow S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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There Goes the Neighborhood S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Paradise Regained S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Fly Little Super Boy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Real Deal, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Lockdown S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Smoking Pickle, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Spontaneous Combustion S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Thunder & Lightning S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Trailer Park Logic S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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I Never Met a Carbo I Didn't Like S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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I Am A Machine S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Pinhead S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Scarface S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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VHS or Beta S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Ejection Seat, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Ejection Generation S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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My Generation S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Bottom Feeder S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Crystal S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Great Escape, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Morning Stretch S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Bubba's Belly (aka The Example Simulator) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Example, The S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Gym Arete Direct S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Gym Arete, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Crack of Dawn, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Meathead S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Head Cheese S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Easy Cheese aka Trout Fishing in America S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Arnold! Arnold! S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Solar Flex S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Five Dollars S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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I'll Be Back S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Hot Rod Lincoln S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Comin' In Smooth S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Cimmaron Lanes S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Orange Marmalade S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Jane Fonda Warm-up S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Happy Hinzi S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Muscles From Brussels S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Armstrong Express, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Needle Haven aka Fallen Prophet S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Demagogue S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Deeper Shade Of Soul S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Profits of Rage S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Green Bonus, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Bone 'n' Vein S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Mark Van Horn, 1987 |
| Page Views: | 1,125 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Monomaniac on Feb 16, 2010 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
Holy Stopper Crux, Batman! This gem is given 5.11b in the latest Shelf Guide, but there are 5.13s with easier cruxes. The route is anything but smooth, with 40 feet of trivial cruising to an in-your-face boulder problem clearing the obvious bulge. There are two obstacles here, first, there are about ten 1, 2, & 3 finger "pockets" to choose from, they are all far away, and only two of them are any good. Second, even if you haven't wasted all of your energy locating the correct pockets, the move is still quite burly. Fortunately things ease quite a bit above the bulge, but you'll likely be too pumped to notice.
A proud on sight, whatever the grade.
A proud on sight, whatever the grade.
Location
Right of the "Head Cheese" roof is a slightly overhanging prow of excellent rock with two routes. Immediately right of these routes is a dark black slab with 4 bolted routes. This is the right-most of these 4 routes (and the third route right of "Five Dollars").
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