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5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 3.4 from 45
votes
| Type: | Trad, 2700 ft (818 m), 15 pitches, Grade IV |
| FA: | Hannah North, Tom Harper, Tom Malzbender |
| Page Views: | 23,209 total · 125/month |
| Shared By: | Tyler Williams on Feb 11, 2010 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
Every Tuolumne climber has eyed the huge face of clouds rest. Then, one day I found a description on the internet of an awesome sounding route right up the middle. With 2700 feet of 5.9ish climbing, it sounded too good to be true. Finally in 2009 we went out and did the route and it has become one of my favorite climbs in Yosemite.
Tom Harper had a great topo here: (deadlink)myweb.cableone.net/tomharper/FTTopo dot html
The pitches are almost all 55-60m long, ending in two beefy bolt anchors, and the "official" ratings are:
1: 5.5
2: 5.8
3: 5.8
4: 5.7
5: 5.7
6: 5.7
7: 5.8
8: 5.9
9: 5.9
10: 5.7
11: 5.10a
12: 5.9
13: 5.7
14: 5.8
15: 5.9
I think these ratings are slightly soft, but considering the amount of climbing, you need to be solid at the grade to make it happen in a day.
With a 6 mile cross country approach, 2700 feet of climbing, 1200 feet of 3rd to the top and 7 miles back to the car, it is a burly, rewarding day.
Tom Harper had a great topo here: (deadlink)myweb.cableone.net/tomharper/FTTopo dot html
The pitches are almost all 55-60m long, ending in two beefy bolt anchors, and the "official" ratings are:
1: 5.5
2: 5.8
3: 5.8
4: 5.7
5: 5.7
6: 5.7
7: 5.8
8: 5.9
9: 5.9
10: 5.7
11: 5.10a
12: 5.9
13: 5.7
14: 5.8
15: 5.9
I think these ratings are slightly soft, but considering the amount of climbing, you need to be solid at the grade to make it happen in a day.
With a 6 mile cross country approach, 2700 feet of climbing, 1200 feet of 3rd to the top and 7 miles back to the car, it is a burly, rewarding day.
16 Comments