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From Concentrate
V9 YDS 7C Font
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in Concentrate Boulder (across from Punani Boulder)
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Flu Shot V4 6B |
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From Concentrate V9 7C |
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Grav Boots V8 7B |
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| Type: | Boulder, 8 ft (2 m) |
| FA: | Das BPC |
| Page Views: | 773 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | j.jaeger on Feb 6, 2010 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Historical seasonal raptor closures with 2023 updates
Details
Per Castlewood Canyon: there is a new closure for nesting raptors this year: Five and Dime will be closed March 1st through July 31st. If you have any questions please feel free to reach out to me, Rachel Chaffee (Park Ranger) at dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.us or by phone at 303-688-5242.
Per Garrett Garner-Wells:
the current raptor closures, announced by CPW and reported on Denver7:
The following climbing route closures are currently in place:
- Morning Sun Wall is closed March 1-July 31.
- Porky’s Wall is closed March 1 - July 31.
- Vultures Wall is closed March 1-July 31. (per Rachel, CCSP Ranger, dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.use or 303-688-5242)
- Shakespearean Theater is closed March 1-May 31.
- Mind Meld is closed March 1-May 31.
As of 2020:
There is a very new and active nest of owls midway up the cliff at the north end of the Neanderthal Wall between Cro-Mag and Up The Red. There is no active nest around the south end of Neanderthal Wall.
As of June, 2017:
The 3 toprope routes at the far south end of Neanderthal Wall (far north end of Allied Wall) have a nesting pair of Snowy Owls. Please stay off these routes until further notice. The park has been notified and hopefully some signage will be put up. The route Rock Rat is included.
As of March 7, 2012:
Shakespearean Theater - restricted March, April, May.
Mind Meld - restricted March, April, May.
Porky's Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, through July 31.
Vulture Wall - restricted March, April, May.
Morning Sun Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, July.
Per Garrett Garner-Wells:
the current raptor closures, announced by CPW and reported on Denver7:
The following climbing route closures are currently in place:
- Morning Sun Wall is closed March 1-July 31.
- Porky’s Wall is closed March 1 - July 31.
- Vultures Wall is closed March 1-July 31. (per Rachel, CCSP Ranger, dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.use or 303-688-5242)
- Shakespearean Theater is closed March 1-May 31.
- Mind Meld is closed March 1-May 31.
As of 2020:
There is a very new and active nest of owls midway up the cliff at the north end of the Neanderthal Wall between Cro-Mag and Up The Red. There is no active nest around the south end of Neanderthal Wall.
As of June, 2017:
The 3 toprope routes at the far south end of Neanderthal Wall (far north end of Allied Wall) have a nesting pair of Snowy Owls. Please stay off these routes until further notice. The park has been notified and hopefully some signage will be put up. The route Rock Rat is included.
As of March 7, 2012:
Shakespearean Theater - restricted March, April, May.
Mind Meld - restricted March, April, May.
Porky's Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, through July 31.
Vulture Wall - restricted March, April, May.
Morning Sun Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, July.
Description
On the large block across the stream from Punani, climb the short roof on the right, stream-side face. The start is fairly inobvious under the roof: right hand on a fat, open pinch cobble about a foot away from the thick flake/crack and left hand on a dishy sidepull. Right foot gets to start stuffed in the horizontal, chossy ledge/flake/crack thing.... Blast out very poor sloping holds with tension before gaining generous holds and the tall but very easy top out (20 feet ish?).
From Concentrate Assis starts on the obvious, but lower quality start: hands matched in the horizontal, choss, flake, jug crack of mouse turd death. The feet continue to evolve as compacted mud is brushed out of the feature. ADMIT THIS SOUNDS CLASSIC! ADMIT IT RIGHT NOW! (This is why I originally opted for a cleaner, slightly higher start.)
From Concentrate Assis starts on the obvious, but lower quality start: hands matched in the horizontal, choss, flake, jug crack of mouse turd death. The feet continue to evolve as compacted mud is brushed out of the feature. ADMIT THIS SOUNDS CLASSIC! ADMIT IT RIGHT NOW! (This is why I originally opted for a cleaner, slightly higher start.)
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