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West Face Direct aka "Routt County Choss Rodeo"
5.10a/b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 1.5 from 2
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Routes in Mt. Zirkel
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West Face Direct aka "Routt County Choss Rodeo" T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 1300 ft (394 m), 11 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | July 2008 |
| Page Views: | 1,717 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Matt Hartman on Feb 3, 2010 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This route was put up a few summers ago and climbs a buttress above the Mt. Zirkel, Big Agnes saddle. It is the cleanest and longest buttress north of the saddle.
P1. Climb the clean face, moving left over loose rock to a belay (5.6). One could climb up the clean face to avoid loose rock. Protection above looks grim, though the rock looks okay.
P2. Class 4 to exposed ridge.
P3-4. Move up easy exposed ridge to the base of a rightward traverse to and overhang.
P5. (crux) Climb the traverse (5.9) to steep crack (5.10ish) with some lichen stemming. If this pitch got cleaned up, it would be excellent.
P6. Move right under choss-filled chimneys think after two one finds passage into clean corner to bulge rope stretcher! (5.6)
P7. Climb bulge to cracks (5.7).
P8. Similar to P7, stretch rope.
P8-10. Follow the ridge up. Very exposed on pegmatite and gneiss to summit.
Descend gully to south and back to saddle.
P1. Climb the clean face, moving left over loose rock to a belay (5.6). One could climb up the clean face to avoid loose rock. Protection above looks grim, though the rock looks okay.
P2. Class 4 to exposed ridge.
P3-4. Move up easy exposed ridge to the base of a rightward traverse to and overhang.
P5. (crux) Climb the traverse (5.9) to steep crack (5.10ish) with some lichen stemming. If this pitch got cleaned up, it would be excellent.
P6. Move right under choss-filled chimneys think after two one finds passage into clean corner to bulge rope stretcher! (5.6)
P7. Climb bulge to cracks (5.7).
P8. Similar to P7, stretch rope.
P8-10. Follow the ridge up. Very exposed on pegmatite and gneiss to summit.
Descend gully to south and back to saddle.
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